by Ann Wallace

Perhaps you are thinking of visiting London?  Perhaps you have been many times before, for London is full of treasures and pleasures that would take a lifetime to discover. But, yes, it is expensive and, yes, it is almost overwhelmingly large and busy. Yet its transportation system is vast and efficient and once you get your bearings you can easily cover a great deal of ground. Have you ever considered staying a little out of the centre, in a pleasant residential area that is easily accessible to central London yet which offers its own unique attractions, wide open spaces, fabulous restaurants and pubs and chic shops? “Is there such a place?” I can almost hear you asking.

Yes indeed there is. Base yourself in Hampstead, in London’s northwest, and you can be in Central London via underground in about 15 minutes. (Once, a friend and I left a pub patio in Hampstead and were in our seats in a theatre close to Leicester square in less than half an hour!) You can enjoy days in the city, yet return in the evening to stroll or relax on the famous Heath and enjoy dinner in one of the ‘village’s’ many trendy restaurants.

You are also sure to spend a couple of days enjoying the riches and treasures of Hampstead itself. For Hampstead is pleasant indeed and an important destination for art lovers. That’s because, adjacent to the Heath, stands majestic Kenwood House, home to one of the finest collections of Old Masters given to the nation in the 20th century. You think I exaggerate?  How about a rare Vermeer (well, any great work of art is rare, but Vermeer painted so few that it’s always thrilling to see one), a Turner, works by Gainsborough, Hals, Van Dyck and Reynolds and a Rembrandt.

If nothing else will lure you to Kenwood, surely the Rembrandt – considered one of the world’s greatest masterpieces – will. Again you think I exaggerate? Well, in the book entitled 100 Best Paintings in London, art historian and author Geoffrey Smith states that if he were pressed to list his top ten out of the 100 works he has chosen, Rembrandt’s Self Portrait with Two Circles at Kenwood House (painted about three years before Rembrandt’s death) would top the list. And there’s another superlative in the guidebook to the House itself: “No art collection in London enjoys a more idyllic setting.” I can vouch for that.

Apart from its important art collection, Kenwood House holds many other treasures, beautiful décor, fine gardens with views over the Heath to London, art in the gardens (including works by Henry Moore) and, of course, as the origins of the house date back to 1616, an interesting history. One of the highlights is the Library or ‘Great Room’, an exquisite saloon designed by master architect Robert Adam and, to quote the guidebook again, “considered by many to be Adam’s masterpiece, and as such one of the finest interiors of 18th century Britain.”

Kenwood House, an English Heritage property, is open daily, admission is free, the ground floor – home to the major treasures – is wheelchair accessible, the Brew House Café (with terrace) serves home-made food throughout opening hours or you are welcome to take a picnic (you’ll find lots of goodies on sale in Hampstead itself) to enjoy in the grounds. And speaking of picnics, during the summer months there are outdoor popular and classical concerts held in the grounds of Kenwood. The house is located a pleasant one-mile walk from Hampstead Underground station.

Which brings me to other walks. It is hard to believe that Hampstead Heath is only four miles from Trafalgar Square. This 320 hectare wild place of woodland, grassland, ponds and gardens is a haven for Hampstead residents, visitors and wildlife. It is often home to interesting art installations and a variety of year-round activities. There are miles of paths and trails, some designated for cyclists and horses. There are also clean, natural swimming ponds here; you can choose the Ladies’, Gentlemen’s or Mixed Bathing Ponds, in which you will join many locals, some of whom swim every day of the year, even breaking the occasional thin winter ice to do so! 

Hampstead is also home to Keats’ house, a gracious but modest abode indeed after the splendours of Kenwood. The curators here try hard with the small collection of artifacts at their disposal, but unless you are an ardent fan of Keats and yearn to sit in the garden where, it is said, he heard that immortalized nightingale, a quick visit will suffice.

Freud was another famous resident of Hampstead and his house is more opulent than Keats’ … testament to the fact that there was – as today – more money in psychoanalysis than poetry, perhaps?  It is open to the public and contains Freud’s fine collection of antiquities, his library and furniture, including that world-famous couch. The property is located on Maresfield Gardens, with the nearest underground station, in this instance, being Finchley Road (then follow the signposts).

The Hampstead Museum in Burgh House was also on my list of places to see on my visit last summer. I enjoyed following the walking directions past so many gracious homes, but was disappointed when I reached my destination to find that the house was closed for renovations. It will be open now, however, and I hope to return soon to learn more of Hampstead’s history, which includes a display on the artist John Constable, another of the area’s famous residents.

Another attraction on my list for my next visit is Fenton House, described in its leaflet as “London’s most enchanting country house” (my, more superlatives for Hampstead), with its unique collections of early keyboard instruments, porcelain and rare examples of 17th century needlework pictures as well as its walled garden and orchard. For music lovers there’s a series of summer recitals … unique in that the historic keyboard instruments of the house are used. Fenton is a National Trust property.

By now you will have realized that the residents of Hampstead are a well-heeled lot (you may spot some celebrities), not given to opening their homes as B&Bs but, as well as a Holiday Inn, there are two centrally-located properties for visitors. The rooms aren’t luxurious but the location is fabulous and the welcome from Bernardo Stella warm indeed. This is at La Gaffe in the heart of Hampstead village, long a popular restaurant and wine bar housed in a 1734 property that was once a shepherd’s home in the heart of the countryside!  Today it promises “Italian hospitality in beautiful Hampstead” and the restaurant is very popular. There are 18 en suite, “absolutely no smoking” rooms here in this higgledy-piggledy house, all with TV, telephone and tea- and coffee-making facilities. They are not luxurious but the location and the prices can’t be beaten.

For those with deeper pockets (although the location is not quite so charming) the House Hotel is elegant and stylish with a “very English”-style bar and exotically decorated dining room. With a recording studio nearby, I was told this is often the hotel of choice for musicians and stars. The House Hotel is located at 2 Rosslyn Hill (a continuation of Hampstead High Street).

Both these properties have restaurants, but while in Hampstead you’re certainly not starved for choice. The Freemason’s Arms on Downshire Hill is great and has a terrace while The Wells on Well Walk is oh-so trendy and offers set-menu dinners in its three gracious upstairs rooms. For Indian-food lovers, The Bombay Bicycle Club, also on Downshire Hill, has been popular for over 20 years (and has great vegetarian selections), while newer choices include such offerings as Thai and Moroccan. Yes, you certainly can eat well in England.

Insight Guides’ London has a section entitled “London Villages” which explains that London grew to its great size by swallowing villages – Richmond, Dulwich, Greenwich, Notting Hill and others, each with distinctive characteristics. Of Hampstead the guide states, “[It] has long been regarded as one of the most desirable addresses in the city. Today’s media, literary, film and music luminaries live in the same houses as the famous of previous centuries. Bishop’s Avenue, between Highgate and Hampstead, has earned the sobriquet Millionaire’s Row. Open spaces predominate … [with] splendid views across London.”  Perhaps on your next visit to London you will consider making Hampstead your temporary home … I’m sure you will enjoy all it has to offer.

Toronto based freelance writer Ann Wallace, is editor of the Travel Society Magazine.