Craving a new, uncrowded and gorgeous location for some exciting whitewater action? Then there’s a humble little country offering gigantic possibilities to those who know where to look.

Squeezed between Italy, Austria, Hungary Croatia and the Adriatic Sea, Slovenia is about the same size as Israel or Massachusetts. Although technically part of the Balkans, Slovenia has always looked more to the West than towards its southern neighbors. And the West looked back, as the Frankish Empire of the Carolingians brought Slovenia into its fold in 788 and christianized it.

The Austro-German monarchy, later known as the Hapsburg, then gained control of the country in 1278 and kept it for more than six centuries. After the disintegration of the empire in 1918, Slovenia entered the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, which would later be part of Yugoslavia, formed in 1945. Slovenia declared its independence on June 25, 1991. Then came a few weeks of sporadic fighting with the troops sent by the mother state to quell the revolution. Yugoslavia quickly abandoned the war and the soldiers were called back.

No traces of war or terrorism, common to all Balkan states, can be found in Slovenia, due to its relatively calm divorce from Yugoslavia and Belgrade. Since then, the country has displayed exceptional peacefulness and economical stability. After centuries of foreign domination and 45 years of socialism, Slovenia was finally free to fully develop its own identity.

The Primorska region takes up the entire western part of Slovenia and stretches from the Julian Alps and the Soča Valley in the north, to the tiny piece of Adriatic Sea grazing its shores in the south. Recognized throughout Europe as a versatile destination, it attracts nature lovers in search of a majestic and peaceful scenery, and seduces adventure-seeking adrenaline junkies.

Sports equipment is available for rental almost everywhere. Here’s a sample of the numerous activities offered in the region: climbing, paragliding, hiking, biking, canyoning, caving, golf, skydiving and horseback riding. Water sports include rafting, swimming, hydrospeed, fishing and canoeing. The possibilities are endless. Winter activities like skiing, dog-sledding, skating and snowmobiling are just as popular.

There are six major cities in and around the Triglav National Park and the Soča Valley: Bled, Kranjska Gora, Bovec, Kobarid (Ernest Hemmingway’s Caporetto in “Farewell to Arms”), Tolmin and Bohinj. Bovec is becoming known as one of Europe’s top centers for extreme and adventure sports. The largest selection of hotels and restaurants is in Bovec, Kobarid and Tolmin. As a destination, Slovenia is more expensive than Hungary, but still a lot cheaper than Italy or Austria.

With an altitude of 2,864 meters (9,400 feet), Slovenia’s highest mountain, the Triglav (which means “three heads”), sits imposingly in national park bearing its name, which is itself part of the Julian Alps. Near the Triglav, the Soča river flows in clean torrents of various intensity throughout the Soča Valley, or “Adrenaline Valley” as people call it. It is considered by many the most beautiful river in Europe with its shimmering, emerald-colored water.

Called the “Dream River” by the regulars, the Soča offers different degrees of difficulty to those wishing to paddle down its stream. From Kobarid to Tolmin (the lower section), canoes and kayaks are the best. The intense middle section, around Bovec, offers grade I to VI rapids with a beautiful scenery. This one is perfect for whitewater paddlers with a lot of experience, and rafts, kayaks and inflatable canoes are used. In the upper section, kayaks and inflatable canoes are preferred. The upper narrow passages of this zigzag-type river are not suited for rafts.

These recommendations are only valid for normal summer water levels. Rafting season stretches from April to October but the best time is when the mountain snow melts and swells the waters in April and May. The rivers are very different in every season and always present a new challenge.

These rivers are also quite popular: Sava Dolinka, Sava Bohinjka, Radovna, Sava, Savinja, Krka, Kolpa and Drava. With 26, 000 km (16,000 miles)of permanent rivers, natural and artificial lakes, and thousands of springs and waterfalls, Slovenia has everything needed to please paddlers from around the world!

Hiking enthusiasts will be delighted to know that Slovenia possesses 7,000 km (4,200 miles) of marked hiking trails and 165 mountain cabins. Although accessible most of the year, the best time for hiking (and biking) is in May. Most of the tourists have not yet arrived and the blossoming valleys are bursting with beautiful fragrant wildflowers.

September is also a good time to hit the trails. The best spots in the Primorska for hiking are around the Triglav, the Vintgar gorge, Tolmin, Bled, and Bohinj. A resonant dober dan! (hello!) is exchanged between every hiker, as Slovenian custom calls for. As for biking, the network of trails is just as developed as the hiking paths. Slovenia is now building its section of the Euro Velo trail, which will connect the Baltic Sea with the Adriatic coast.

Sport has been part of the Slovenian heritage for a long time. It was first mentioned in a 1689 document describing fishing, hunting, shooting, skiing, mountain climbing and cave exploration. It’s no surprise then that half of all Slovenians are actively involved in sports. Slovenians truly enjoy nature and around 8% of Slovenia consists of protected land. The government has approved a preservation program which will gradually incorporate almost a third of the country.

Slovenia is not only known for its sports facilities. For those looking for unusual things to do and see, there’s the oldest grape vine in the world (400 years) in Maribor, a beautiful golf course and exquisite cuisine in the castle-hotel Mokrice, the annual disappearance of Lake Cerknica, which has perplexed scientists over the centuries, the country’s 7,000 registered caves and the charming Venetian-style town of Piran on the coast. Also, the Predjama castle, which is half-built into a cave suspended over a 123-meter (400 foot) cliff, with its story about a rebellious medieval knight who met a strange and early death.

A taste of culture

As far as food goes, here’s a little tip: traditional dishes are best sampled in a gostilna (“inn”), rather than in a restavracija. Meals are tastier, cheaper and often come from old family recipes. Some high-class restavracijas serve delicious foods, but mostly, the taste of the inevitable sausage and wiener schnitzel leaves much to be desired.

Although its cuisine is heavily influenced by that of its neighbors, some items are not to be missed under any circumstance. Pršut is one of them. This slovenian prosciutto is cured by the bora, a cold and dry wind that strongly blows over the Karst region. Served with local goat cheese, melon and fresh bread, this specialty delights even the most finicky taste buds.

A nice wine is obviously a must to accompany such a feast and Slovenia produces some remarkable reds, notably the rich Refošk and the dark Teran. Good whites and rosés are also available. Savoring a potica (a cake roll filled with walnuts, poppy seeds, herbs, honey or cheese) is a perfect way to end a meal.

Last but not least, the Pleterska viljamovka. This strong pear brandy is made by the monks of the Pleterje monastery. An empty bottle is secured in the tree around the pear sprout, and the fruit actually grows inside the bottle, which gives the brandy its exceptional taste. The large pear orchard, with its thousands of bottles perched in the trees, is quite a strange sight!

This sparkling little gem of a country is a rare example of places where you can find such diverse landscapes and things to do at an arm’s length away. Choosing between a wide range of alpine sports, the balmy Mediterranean charm of the Adriatic coast, delightful wine-tasting, the discovery of the mysterious Karst caves and every adventure in-between, is a real pleasure.

So far, the sheer kindness of Slovenians and the beauty of their land has remained unspoiled by this curious little creature called “The Tourist”. So, shhh!… let’s keep this between us!

Annie Delisle is a translator and freelance writer who travels frequently. She is currently completing her first travel-related book.