A Kamchatka Volcano

The spectacular features of the Ring of Fire extend itself from Alaska along the Aleutian Islands to the rugged coastline of Kamchatka and the stunning Kuril Islands. Intrepid travelers have long desired to visit these mysterious lands, so close to the United States in distance and yet so far away due to logistical difficulties in getting there.

Small expedition vessels always intent on discovering distant shores were the first to cautiously explore these untamed lands. The ship’s small groups comfortably fitted the environment and the passengers were astounded by the smoking and snow covered volcanoes, brightly colored tundra and chance meetings with a multitude of wild and marine life. And thus largely by word of mouth this wild and wonderful region of the world has become a prime wilderness destination for intrepid explorers.

Kamchatka is a region where wilderness reigns, 27 percent of Kamchatka’s land has been set aside as protected areas. Some of these protected areas are better known then others, because of their status as World Heritage Sites, such as the Kronotsky Biosphere Nature Preserve. Others less known, are Nalychevo, Bystrinsky and Kluychevskoye Nature Parks, all of which, some more then others, are covered with a multitude of volcanoes.

Nalychevo Nature Park by far receives the most visitors, mostly because of its nearness to the two biggest settlements on Kamchatka, Petropavlovsk and Yelizovo. Four of the highest volcanoes in this park are still active: Koryaksky (3450m) last erupted in 1956; Zhupanovsky (2927m) in 1957; Avacha erupted in 1991 and Dzendzur (2156m) is also active, but there is no record of its last eruption. Nestled between these giants, fed by their geothermal activity, are picturesque hot springs, that soothe the muscles of many trekkers and climbers that visit the park. In April/May the flanks of volcanoes covered with snow become the playground for the world’s mightiest and advanced skiers, enjoying the varied difficulties and challenges the volcanic landscape has to offer.

Kluchevskoye Nature Park, the youngest park in Kamchatka includes twelve volcanoes and about forty cones from different eruptions, 47 glaciers and hundreds of lava flows. A renowned eruption in 1975, of the Tolbechik volcano was the 6th largest volcanic event in the history of the planet and changed its volcanic landscape dramatically. Ten hours or so by bus or car from the main city on Kamchatka, Petropavlovsk, on a road that only can be described as physical torture, brings you to the small village of Kluychi from where most explorations of this spectacular park begin.

The Kronotsky Biosphere Nature Preserve is probably the most well known territory in Kamchatka named after the Kronotsky volcano. However, the Kronotsky preserve is perhaps better known for its Valley of Geysers, discovered in 1941.

While not as immense as Yellowstone, the Valley of Geysers is spectacularly situated in its surrounding volcanic landscape. Multicolored rocks decorate a narrow valley that is crossed by wooden walkways where visitors tread among bubbling mud pots, steaming rivers, spouting geysers and an array of vibrant colored flowers. The Valley can only be reached by helicopter, which route usually takes visitors along a range of both active and dormant volcanoes, bright green and blue calderas and in the fall dark red and purple tundra. The trip is truly extraordinary, but for most a bit expensive.

While Kamchatka’s weather is extremely changeable, sometimes preventing visitors from experiencing an itinerary as planned; it offers a multitude of alternative choices. To the south, where the weather patterns usually differ from those of the north, an even more impressive volcanic landscape offers itself for exploration. Here are the Mutnovsky (2322m) and Gorely (1816m) volcanoes, which are accessible by road up to a certain point and, of course, some serious hiking. Gorely volcano especially, with its more then 11 superimposed craters, some of them ice blue lakes, offers incredible dramatic views. Further south, lies the Yuzhno Kamchatsky Reserve, another protected area, which is perhaps better known for its Kurilskoye Lake, Kamchatka’s second largest lake. The lake was formed 8300-8400 years ago by a volcanic eruption. The lake is surrounded by a surreal and mountainous skyline commanded by the Ilinsky volcano. Kurilskoye Lake is the largest spawning ground for salmon in the world and consequently attracts a large brown bear congregation and large flocks of Steller Sea Eagles, some of which nest in the area.

Most accessible though, although it requires stamina for the same ten hour ride to Kluychi, Bystrinsky Nature Park, one of the largest centrally located parks in Kamchatka, offers somewhat different opportunities. Within the park lie two indigenous communities, Esso and Anivgai inhabited by the Koryak and Even people. Here the active element of living among volcanoes is defined by the culture and livelihoods of the original habitants. All though the park and the nearby communities have some difficulties in the realization of their mutual goals, the experience for a visitor to this area is by all means more multifaceted then in any other area of Kamchatka.

The Kuril Islands are part of the “Ring of Fire” a string of islands between Kamchatka and Japan. This is an arc of fire, the islands marking the fault line between the Pacific and the Eurasian plates. With about 140 volcanoes, including 31 that have erupted, this is one of the most geologically active areas of the world. Volcanic activity takes various forms: eruptions, jets of sulphur gases and acid thermal water. The Kuriles form a chain of 32 islands stretching from north to south between Kamchatka and Japan. Navigating the Kuril Islands is tricky because at least 700 of its 140 volcanoes are underwater. The islands are famous for their numerous hot springs and mineral water which has a rich chemical composition with a wide spectrum of balneological properties.

In the Kuriles geology is never static. The most active volcano in the Kuril Islands is the Alaid volcano, which is the most northern and highest volcano, 3000m from the bottom of the sea, and 2300m above sea level.

The Kuril Islands are like a string of pearls, each consisting of at least one or two volcanoes, increasing in height from south to north. Paramushir (2042 sq.km) close to Kamchatka is covered with volcanoes: Ebeko (1156 located in the north) is one of the most active volcanoes in the Kuriles and an eruption in 1952, killed several hundreds of people, Chikurachi (1829m in the south) as well as a number of small volcanoes such as Fuss and Karpinsky.

Most of the northern islands are covered with thickets of bamboo and pine and depressed larch forests, making it a bit of a challenge to hike them. However, the numerous sea lion and sea other colonies along its shorelines are extraordinary places for marine observation. Further down the chain, at Lovuskhi Rocks, the noise of harem rookeries is astounding.

The Kuril Islands are also famous for their immense bird populations. Nesting colonies can be from several pairs to several hundred of thousands of birds. Bird species ecologically, associated with water are most numerous in the Kuriles. Huge seabird colonies include sea birds such as cormorants, sea gulls and auks, guillemots and puffins form huge seashore colonies.

The southern Kuriles (such as Kunashir, Shikotan and Iturup) are covered with coniferous forests with a mixture of deciduous species. The representation of this mixture is unique and can be found nowhere else in the world. These islands are almost untouched by present day human activity, and remain biospheres that preserve rare species of flora and fauna and ecological systems.

Kunashir Island, located only 19 miles from Hokaido (Japan) is often called the “black pearl” and is worth a visit as its beauty is unparalleled. Throughout the island the smell of sulphur and clouds of steam remind you that this is part of the “Ring of Fire.” The northern and southern sides are completely different. The northern part is beautiful but trackless wilderness, while in the southern part of the island; geothermal wonders and bird watching are quite accessible. The island is home to three major volcanoes and a number of small ones. Mount Taytya (1822m) is located on the northern end of the island. Tyatya is young and active showering cinder and ash every few years. The Golovnino (887m) caldera on the south end of the island is more then a mile across and includes two crater lakes. And then, there is Mendeleev, only (888m) a much more accessible volcano, only a few miles from the Golovnino crater.

Once one has had the chance to visit these regions and become acquainted with its people, one is forever smitten. There is such rare beauty in its isolation, such awe of the starkness of its volcanic power and admiration of people who live and perhaps will die because this is their land.

Aaltje van Zoelen is Managing Partner of World Wise Ecotourism Network She has traveled multiple times through the regions described in this article. And is very much involved in activities supporting its conservation and protection for the future.