Dominica
Where visitors can be part of the wildlife

From the prop plane window I looked out and was mesmerized by the myriad colors of green and turquoise below me. Nothing prepared me for the amazing tropical beauty displayed so shamelessly below me. It was as though a box of crayons had melted and run together in the warmth of the sun. I wanted to reach out and touch it, and I could hardly wait to set foot on land and smell it. I caught myself touching the window of the plane expecting to literally feel the island. As the plane swept low over the palm tips and swooped sharply left, I glanced at the other passengers. They seemed inspired, yet serene, and I realized they were relieved to be back home. Where was the runway anyway?

Following a sharp drop of the plane, I was hit by an aroma that permeated the plane and seeped through my skin and into my mind. I was overwhelmed with a feeling of life and spirit – Dominica, “the Nature Island of the Caribbean,” seemed as though it had a soul. This unspoiled Caribbean island emanated a sense of natural order and inspired a reverence that I found freed me of the stress and pressure of home even before I set foot off the plane. How had this island managed to hide so well from the rest of the world?

I experienced something that scarcely exists on other Caribbean islands today: not just an undisturbed natural paradise but a proud people with a true innocence to the demands of curt and crusty tourists. An island where people have preserved their natural friendliness, and nurture and preserve nature's gifts, Dominica exists for those discriminating, unjaded, discreet travelers seeking a subdued way of life. The island is a perfect destination for the young-at-heart, adventurers, romanticists and nature lovers, a virgin offering secrets and gifts to all that visit if they are willing to forego the lure of the large chain hotels, all-inclusive packages, casinos, golf courses and shopping malls that other Caribbean islands offer.

Instead she abounds in attractions many other islands have long since lost.  In wildlife alone, she offers more than 175 species of birds (of which 135 are native), four species of marine turtles and one tortoise species, 55 species of butterflies, four species of frogs, 12 species of freshwater fish, 12 species of bats, 20 species of marine mammals (whale and dolphin), 20 species of crab, five species of snake (all nonpoisonous) and 10 species of lizards. You will never be lonely on Dominica!

One gem offered only on Dominica is the Carib Territory, a reserve of land that belongs to the descendants of the original inhabitants of the Caribbean Islands. That's right, the original inhabitants of the Caribbean Islands, the Carib Indians. Imagine meeting and intermingling with the indigenous people of the Caribbean, looking into the eyes of people from an ancient culture and the last remaining descendents of the people who greeted Columbus in 1492! Visiting this part of the island will leave you in awe.

You can be a part of the wildlife while you’re in Dominica, playing hide and seek among endless tropical rainforests, enjoying romantic interludes in emerald pools and under waterfalls, frolicking in any of more than 365 streams and rivers, and challenging yourself to hikes ranging from easy strolls to all-day marches. If you are into simple pleasures, you can enjoy watching fireflies perform evening ballets, count stars or count on frogs to serenade you to sleep at night. If you love taking photographs of hummingbirds and butterflies, believe in making wishes on rainbows, riding down rapids or walking through botanical gardens and old forts, then Dominica is proof that Heaven exists! 

The island invites you to get off the beaten path, visit with the locals and enjoy the fact that every trek will lead to your own adventure. Dominica has miles and miles of lightly trafficked hiking trails, designed for all types and ages. All you need are simple, comfortable clothes and suitable hiking shoes. With more than 30 dedicated nature sites and hiking trails around the island, your first visit will be just that. Dominica has such steep topography and rugged terrain that it seems as though new waterfalls, rivers, gorges and nature sites are being discovered almost daily – there is no way you cannot want to come back.  

Dominica’s underwater realm rivals its mountain scenery. Warm blue seas and contrasting fiery sunsets combine with swaying palms and different colored beaches located around the island. Try wearing a swimsuit to match each colored sand beach – you’ll have to take several; white, black, and gold.  Unspoiled, secluded small coves and beaches are scattered along the coast and worth finding. Many are sheltered and your footsteps will be the only ones you'll see. Each one small and intimate, there's a different bay for every day of your visit.  

Snorkel amid the champagne-like bubbles that issue from submerged volcanic gas vents called fumaroles. A noted divers’ delight, Dominica offers shore and boat diving, from novice to expert, with diving walls, pinnacles, coral reefs and deep diving (more than 130 feet, which is considered sport diving). You can watch playful dolphins all year long, and whale watching is always a great excuse to get out onto the water. You can always drop a fishing line and most likely get a response! With a mere 15 minutes to fishing spot drop offs, calm waters and balmy temperatures, you have almost every right to expect some fresh catch of the day to show up on your hook. Bait fish like bonito, jacks and small tuna are great snacks, but don't forget the blue marlin, wahoo, yellowfin tuna or dolphin fish (not Flipper the mammal). The Dominica International Sportfishing Tournament is testimony that prized blue marlin are here for the catching. You can hire boats for half-day and full-day charters. If you're up for surfing, the windy east coast will be your challenge.

Visiting “the Nature island of the Caribbean.” you'll find a wonderful gastronomical world that overflows with red, pink, yellow, orange and green fruits, vegetables, spices, flowers and seafood delights. Restaurants here typically offer organically grown food with fresh seasonings and serve it in a friendly, unpolished style of service that lets you know that you’re not in Kansas anymore. The cuisine blends the foods of several cultures, including African, Carib Indian, French and Asian. Beef and chicken are available, but fish is the star here, including mahi-mahi, grouper, kingfish, flying fish, snapper and tuna. Shellfish includes Caribbean lobster, river crayfish and conch. Don't forget "mountain chicken," or "crapaud," a large frog that locals consider a delicacy. Try manicou, or wild agouti (a large rodent), served most often in October and November during celebrations. Vegetables and greens are always fresh and include yams, dasheen and tannia. Top off with an endless array of ice creams bearing tropical fruits and flavors like mango, coconut and guava. 

Night life can be as exhilarating and charming as the day’s scenic wonders. From Friday night's Happy Hour at Fort Young to Thursday Jazz Night at Symes Zees, you can join locals as they play music in the island’s ever-popular rum shops – kind of like pubs. Kubuli is the local beer, but you must try peanut punch on the way to Trafalgar Falls, along with the local rum punch at Symes Zees. Beware: You haven't had rum punch until you’ve made your way to Portsmouth at the mouth of the Indian River and then rowed upstream to the Bush Bar and tried its unique Bush Rum.  It's OK if you swim back instead of riding – you won’t be the first or last to try it. Don't take my word for it; try out your own rum recipes.   

Feel gushing fresh waterfalls, bathe in cool, rocky pools of water, wiggle your toes in the Caribbean sand and watch millions of stars twinkle over distant breaking waves. With such wonderful surroundings, the island also offers unique, memorable accommodations. You might want to split your stay between rainforest and waterfront.  Accommodations range from Caribbean-style cottages, rainforest retreats and bed & breakfasts to guest houses, oceanfront dive hotels and charming seafront inns.  For the adventurous, the Fly-Drive Program on Dominica offers a jeep with hotel vouchers for moving about the island.  For those a little less restless, a package that includes air, hotel, transfers and perhaps a jeep during their stay is available.

Dominica is a giant greenhouse and guesthouse that offers visitors a warm home away from home, close encounters with nature and natives, a range of unforgettable accommodations and a sense of having found something rare and hidden. You’ll know the emotions this place evokes when you feel the pounding of your heart as your plane descends between swaying palms and rainforests to begin your adventure here. 

© P. J. Ott, Wild Side Destinations