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Malta Island of Trust By Pierre Azzopardi, Sun Dreams Travel Missing
the forest for the trees is one of life’s proverbial dangers. Getting
saddled in routine is an easy way to lose your sense of direction and the
significance of your activities. This happens all too easily in modern
industrial societies, despite or even because of their great material
wealth. Family, working and social relations get fragmented to the point
that you can even come to question the meaningfulness of your existence.
The networks of family, local community and close friends that provided
such strong counsel and practical help in the past have been disrupted and
you’re left to rely mostly on personal resources. So sometimes it
becomes necessary to distance yourself from daily routine and seize the
chance to delve into your soul and remind yourself of what really counts
in life. The best way to succeed at this is to put yourself amid a
community that, although it belongs to the 21st century in terms of its
economic development, has not lost the traditional values of family and
social solidarity rooted in a millennial past. Such is the island-nation
of Malta. In the Maltese
Islands, the rhythm of life is still
embedded in Christian ritual and its patterns formed by Christian
belief. The Maltese undoubtedly claim that the source of their festive
approach to life and of the courage and co-operation with which they face
its problems and difficulties is their Christian faith. Christianity has
almost 2,000 years of history in Malta. It was brought to the island by no
one less than the Apostle Paul in 60 A.D. St. Luke described the
circumstances in chapters 27 and 28 of the Acts of the Apostles. Paul was
being taken to Rome to be tried as a political rebel, but the ship was
wrecked on the island. The evangelist underlined the unusual hospitality
with which the Maltese greeted the crew and the prisoners during the
winter they were forced to spend on the island. The Maltese did not follow
the usual practice of plundering or exploiting the victims of a shipwreck. Perhaps this natural
sense of brotherhood and solidarity explains why they were so ready and
open to accept the gospel of Christian charity preached by St. Paul.
According to local tradition, the governor of the island, Publius, became
its first bishop. In the forging of the
Maltese character, it is difficult not to believe that environmental
conditions played no part. The archipelago’s two
main islands, Malta and
Gozo, are rather arid rocks, making survival a constant struggle. The need
to resist pirates and foreign occupants exacting loot and taxes aggravated
the difficulty. But these challenges only served to strengthen the
islanders’ solidarity and trust in God. Indeed,
Malta and Gozo seem to have been sacred islands even in prehistoric times.
Many huge megalithic temples, some well over 5,000 years old, appear to
have been places of pilgrimage. Foreigners as well as the local people
came to commune with a goddess, probably representing the Great Earth
Mother, symbol of fertility, and to consult her oracle and even seek cures
for their illnesses. These temples, marvels
of construction before the discovery of metals or the wheel, are the
oldest examples of architecture in the world, since they were designed and
built as free-standing monuments. They are not adapted natural caves and
are older than the pyramids of Egypt. They are evidence of the physical
and spiritual strength of a mysterious, prehistoric people, whose artistic
achievement remains as an invitation and propitious environment in which
to ask the timeless questions about the meaning of existence. (For a
further discussion of these temples, be sure to
read “Malta’s Monolithic Temples in the January 2003 issue of The
Cultured Traveler.) That was the first
golden age of Maltese culture. A second, which also constitutes a glorious
part of the common heritage of mankind, occurred with the advent of the
Knights of the Order of St. John, in the 16th century A.D. The Order had
been established in 1076 in Jerusalem to provide care, first medical, then
military, to pilgrims to the Holy Land. The Knights had been driven out
from several strongholds. and soon after their coming to Malta, they were
forced to defend the island against the forces of the Turkish prince,
Suleiman the Magnificent, in the Great Siege of 1565. The defeat of the
Turks was a turning point that probably changed the fate of Europe. The collective memory
of the Maltese has retained the historic epic of 1565 as a parable of the
human condition: a state of siege by adverse forces to be overcome by
solidarity and trust in God, a perilous experience to be undergone with
courage and sacrifice, leading to a joyous end in festivity, a complement
to the odyssey of St. Paul. The Maltese Islands
are studded with symbols expressive of the people’s thankfulness for
past graces and faith in the future. Great creativity has gone into the
construction of more than 330 churches and innumerable works of art,
especially of the Baroque era, including the great masterpieces by
Caravaggio in St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. There are other large
churches, such as St. Paul’s Cathedral in the old capital, Mdina, which
are impressive by any standards. But perhaps even more impressive are the
small, wayside chapels, a distinctive mark of the Maltese landscape, some
excavated from the rock, others decorated with medieval frescoes, most of
them with a rustic baroque character that invites quiet contemplation and peace in
the silent environment. One of them is sited
at the traditional spot where St. Paul baptized the first Maltese and is
called "San Pawl Milqi" ("St. Paul Welcomed’). Even the less religiously inclined do not easily escape the meditative spell of the Maltese context. As one walks upon the incredible floor in the "Co-Cathedral," made up of tessellated slabs laid over the tombs of the Knights and other celebrated figures who had their fill of earthly glory, one can sense the acute consciousness in the Baroque era of the mirroring of the eternal by the ephemeral. “Ex voto"
(Latin for “out of thankfulness”) donations are an age-old custom in
Malta and Gozo which have lived on till the present day. These donations
are the fulfillment of a vow made by the donator in gratitude for the
grace granted by God or the help granted by a saint in a very difficult
situation in life. They are symbols of the donors’ firm believe in God
and their unshakeable faith in his future guidance. Ex voto donations
can be seen in many of Malta’s churches. The oldest are several hundred
years old. An interesting and rich collection of ex voto donations
referring to the daily perils at sea can be admired at the Museum annexed
to the Church of "Our Lady of Graces" in Zabbar and in the
Church of "Ta Pinü" in Gozo. Both Malta and Gozo are a
wellspring of inspiration for coping with the problems of life with
invincible trust. |
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