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Volume 7, December 2005 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Hidden Romania: The Flavour of Old Europe
By
Claudiu Cirjan,
Cultural Travel & Tours |
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The country can offer a various and harmonious natural heritage, places of beautiful and unspoiled nature in the Carpathian Mountains, along the Black Sea coast, and especially in the Danube Delta, a realm of wildlife which cannot be found elsewhere in Europe. Romanian landscapes seem to have been created by God for those who love nature without reserve. Then there are those places with a special identity which make up human-made heritage, i.e. historic buildings or art monuments, which bear the distinctive imprint of local history, of the people who have raised them. As a rule, the "consumers" of heritage places, whether in Romania or elsewhere, are those "sensitive" travellers who have an interest in the past, in fine arts or in architecture, which is to say that they have sufficient education to understand the significance of a historical site or monument, to grasp the spirit of the place they visit. They usually associate the heritage place with the constructions of the present, with the local people they meet, and, in a wider sense, with the culture and society of the country they visit. If the Danube Delta singles Romania out as a first-rate tourist destination with unique natural resources, the question arises whether it is possible for her to compete with other countries in point of heritage tourism too. Especially as she does not seem better "equipped" than other European countries with castles, palaces, cathedrals or fortresses commonly regarded as major attractions in cultural tourism. So, is there anything in particular that distinguishes Romania from other countries? Or else, what are her strengths or selling points in heritage tourism?
Peasants in the remote Maramures and Oas highland areas, in the villages of the Iza river valley or of the Viseu river valley have kept to their traditional ways of life from times immemorial. Their small but graceful wooden churches have beautiful Byzantine murals and icons on the inside, but paradoxically their slender bell-towers built in the church suggest the Gothic style. Their oak or pine-tree structure makes a Scandinavian traveller, for instance, feel at home. The alchemy produced between these old Orthodox and Greek-Catholic sanctuaries and their shape, pertaining to the genuine architecture styles of western churches, has yet to be discovered.
About 230 peasant fortified churches stand today in Transylvania but they are doomed to crumble down for lack of parishioners and of state funds to restore them. Few of them, however, like Biertan, Prejmer or Harman have recently been restored with assistance from UNESCO or from foundations in Germany. Therefore, visitors are delighted to discover their fortified precincts, their vaulted covered walks, their gate towers and bastions and, more picturesque than anything else, their supply storing cells where villagers could take refuge at times of siege. Aliens from outside the earth left behind the stone sculptures of the Easter Island and fled to a better world. On a smaller and much different scale, so did the German Saxons of Transylvania. Crossing the mountains over to Bukovina in pursuit of other UNESCO World Heritage sites, i.e. the monasteries of Voronet, Humor, Moldovita, Sucevita or Arbore, the curious traveller will stop and wonder again: "How could a 0.25 m thick layer of colour, displayed on the outer wall frescoes of these monasteries, resist to rain and snow falls for over 400 years now? What else beside vinegar and egg yolk did that secret combination of colours contain? And whose idea was to unfold an illustrated Bible on the entire wall surface of these monasteries anyway? And to what purpose?" Given their authenticity, quality and diversity, churches and monasteries in Romania are undeniable areas of excellence for all those seeking a pleasant and rewarding travel experience.
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