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Volume 6, February 2004 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Abraham Lincoln in Bourbon Country |
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Abraham Lincoln, the 16th president of the United States, was born in Kentucky, where his father was a seasonal distillery hand. One of today's better bourbons, Knob Creek, was named after the site of that distillery. As a young man in Illinois, Lincoln applied for and received a state license to sell liquor, and he operated several taverns. As a politician during the period when anti-alcohol forces were gaining strength, Lincoln often straddled the fence on that issue. Here is the story of Abraham Lincoln's connection with bourbon whiskey.
The
park comprises Thomas Lincoln's Sinking Spring Farm, 348 acres of stony land
that Thomas and Nancy Lincoln bought in December of 1808 for $200. Nancy was
already pregnant with the future president at the time. In
1811, because of title problems with the Sinking Spring farm, the Lincolns moved
10 miles northeast to a similar place on Knob Creek. "My earliest
recollection is of the Knob Creek place," wrote President Lincoln of his
childhood home in Kentucky. He lived there for five years, until he was seven
years old.
After
Lincoln started to attend the local school, Knob Creek very nearly changed
history when little Abe fell into the rain-swollen stream and almost drowned. He
was rescued by a schoolmate named Austin Gollaher. A
"replica" of that second Lincoln family cabin stands on part of the
old Knob Creek farm site, at White City on US 31E.
The distillery site is a little north of there on the same highway. The
founder of the distillery on Knob Creek was Waddie Boone, a "near
relative" of Daniel Boone. Many locals claim that Waddie Boone and Stephen
Ritchie were Kentucky's first distillers, starting in 1780, but just about every
part of eastern and central Kentucky claims that title for a different favorite
son. When Thomas Lincoln worked there, the distillery was owned by Waddie's
oldest son, Charles. The plant's master distiller was "Uncle" Johnnie
Boone, Waddie's second son. According to legend (and this one gets a big grain
of salt), one of these Boones predicted great things for young Abe and said that
"if he goes into the whiskey business, he will be the best distiller in the
land." After
the Lincolns moved to Indiana, the Boones moved their distillery operation
closer to Bardstown. It was the son of Charles Boone, also named Charles, who
operated the later Boone & Brothers Distillery near Bardstown. A subsequent
distillery on the old Knob Creek site was owned by J.M. Atherton and the site is
now called Athertonville. Brown-Forman may have owned a distillery there at some
point and so, probably, did the Dant family. (It may have been the same
distillery in all four cases, as they changed hands often.) All
of this may seem like a pretty thin basis for naming a bourbon Knob Creek, but
that is what Jim Beam did when the company created Knob Creek Kentucky Straight
Bourbon Whiskey a few years ago. Knob Creek is, at nine years, the oldest Beam
whiskey you can buy. It is bottled at 100 proof in a 750 ml flask-type bottle.
It has been the most successful of the four "Small Batch" bourbons
marketed by Beam.
From
Kentucky, the Lincolns moved west to Indiana. Part of the purchase price for
their Kentucky farm was paid in whiskey, which Thomas probably resold for cash
or traded for something that was a little easier to carry. Nancy Lincoln died
when Abe was about 10 and Thomas soon remarried. The family lived in Indiana
until Abe was 21, then moved to Illinois, where Lincoln lived until he became
president. Thomas and his second wife settled on a farm in Decatur and Abe took
a job in New Salem, near Springfield, as a clerk at Offutt's General Store. In
1832, Lincoln ran for the state legislature and lost. After that election, he
and two partners applied to the state for a retail liquor license and opened a
tavern in New Salem. Lincoln lived in the back room. He may also have worked
briefly in a distillery during that period. Among other things, Lincoln's liquor
license prohibited him from selling whiskey to "Negroes, Indians, or
children." Later,
Lincoln and William Berry (who was apparently the senior partner in the
enterprise) bought two more taverns. Because of the later influence of the
temperance movement, all three establishments are euphemistically referred to as
"groceries" or "general stores" in most Lincoln biographies,
but there is little doubt that brandy, whiskey, wine and rum were the major
products sold, and there probably was a bar on the premises for immediate
consumption. At
least one former clerk reported that liquor was the only thing they sold,
at least during part of that period. Lincoln continued in this profession, also
functioning as a postmaster and doing some surveying, until he became a lawyer
in 1837 and moved to Springfield. He was elected to congress in 1847 and won the
presidency in 1860. Unfortunately
for Lincoln the tavern keeper, and for the rest of the whiskey industry, this
same period saw the birth and growth in America of a temperance movement that
eventually led to national prohibition. In those days, drinking – especially
in taverns – was an activity almost exclusively male while the temperance
movement's membership was primarily female. The abolitionist movement (the
effort to abolish slavery), the temperance movement, and the eventual women's
rights movement were all different aspects of a broader social movement, and
shared many leaders and partisans. Lincoln’s stand on temperance Since
the new Republican Party, of which Lincoln was a founding member, was based in
large part on opposition to slavery, Lincoln had to at least appear sympathetic
to the movement's other major issue, the temperance cause, despite his personal
background. Many of his public statements on the subject are carefully hedged,
although he appears to have been a temperance supporter for the most part.
In
Lincoln's time, the temperance movement was mostly about just that, temperance
rather than prohibition. Total prohibition of alcoholic beverages only became
the movement's goal in the decades after Lincoln's death, culminating in the
passage and ratification of the 18th Amendment in 1919. During
his political career, before the Civil War overshadowed temperance as an issue,
Lincoln gave many speeches at temperance society meetings. He preached against
the evils of alcohol, but mainly advocated education, not government regulation.
He believed people would stop abusing alcohol if they appreciated the benefits
of a sober lifestyle. In other words, he was more an advocate of sobriety than
an opponent of alcohol. One
close associate of Lincoln's who did not agree with him about whiskey was
General Ulysses S. Grant, who President Lincoln eventually placed in command of
the Union army and who is generally credited with winning the war for the North.
Grant was a notorious consumer of Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey, for which he was
often criticized. Responding to that criticism, at the height of the war,
Lincoln supposedly asked what brand of whiskey Grant preferred, so he could send
some of it to all of his other generals. (Grant is said to have favored Old
Crow.) Grant's
biggest trouble with whiskey had nothing to do with his drinking habit, however.
During his own tenure as president, many of Grant's closest aides (though not
Grant himself) were implicated in a scandal known as the Whiskey Ring. With
regard to whiskey, Lincoln was very much a product of his times. During his
childhood on what was still virtually the frontier, distilling was practiced
(and its products consumed) by almost everyone. As a young man, Lincoln retailed
whiskey and other liquors, a profitable and entirely respectable business at the
time. As
his legal and political career developed, he adopted and promoted the new view
that whiskey appeared to do more harm than good. He advocated what we today
would call responsible, moderate drinking, even though he personally abstained.
In these small ways, as in so many others, Lincoln stood at the crossroads of
history and anticipated much about the America that was to come. Copyright © 1997, Charles Kendrick Cowdery, All Rights Reserved.
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