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Islay, Scotland’s Whisky Island

By Rowena Carr-Allinson

Making the trip to Islay definitely separates the men from the boys. The Holy Grail we set out to attain was the distillery of Laphroaig. The aim: to trace the internationally known whisky back to its source, a tiny island in the Inner Hebrides just off the west coast of Scotland. Islay (pronounced I-la) is just three miles wide but has an impressive 130 miles of coastline.

The journey to the island can be made by ferry with Caledonia McFerry or by plane, thanks to British Airways. We opted to fly to Glasgow (with no-frills airline Ryan Air) then drive to Askaig on the peninsula, thus taking in the scenery from the surrounding area of Glasgow, as well as Loch Lomond.

After a long day's driving past Glasgow's molasses factories, the beautiful lochs and the chocolate box town of Port Charlotte, we finally arrived at the ferry port in time for the last (and second) ferry of the day. If you can shop before and bring provisions with you, it's a wise idea. Groceries on the island are expensive as everything is imported and you won’t find your standard high street here. We stocked up at Tesco's just in case.

The ferry from Askaig takes a couple of hours and the ambience is much the same as on the channel ferries to France. The smell of chips and booze is slightly overpowering. On the upside, if you like dogs you can sit in the dog's lounge – which at least has comfy chairs – but you have to be quick to grab a seat!

Arriving at Islay in the dark is pretty scary stuff. The barren look of the island makes for an unsettling first impression. The spooky sensation wasn't helped by the curious marshland vegetation, which reminded me of thrillers set in Louisiana or something out of a bad Scooby Doo episode. The eerie hanging trees scraped the car as we drove along the pitch-black dirt tracks into the unknown.

Having decided to rent a farmhouse we followed our rather limited directions – “You can't miss it – it's past the cross.” Naturally, we took a wrong turn. A bumpy lane led us to a huge farmhouse set in a deer park, complete with clanging cattle grids. Unfortunately no one was home to give us directions, apart from a black cat peering through the window at us, the intruders. Spooked some more, we drove off in search of our home.

Driving past Kildarton Cross in the dark, the beauty and the mystical aura surrounding the ancient Celtic symbols were striking. Islay is steeped in history. Relics of times gone by litter the island: stone circles, carved stones, forts and castles, as well as evidence of Bronze Age settlements. Eventually, as we drove on ahead, a light in the distance announced the end of our journey. . .finally.

Our spectacular temporary home

Trudernish Farmhouse was cozy and warm in no time, thanks to the Aga (kitchen range) and the open fire in the living room. The color scheme and furniture were rather reminiscent of home – did they, too, have shares in Ikea?  It wasn't until the next morning that we realized quite how gorgeous it was. It became clear why Islay earned the moniker of “Jewel of the Hebrides.” Perfect calm. The sea, the barren coastline, fertile pastures and peat-rich moor land all around. Sheep, pheasants, red and fallow deer roaming freely in the wild Highland bloom.

Our three-bedroom farmhouse, set in Ardtalla Estate, boasts outstanding views across to the Mull of Kintyre, miles of deserted coastline and the hills of Arran. Overlooked by the gentle slopes of Beinn Bheigeir, the farmhouse is also located near the largest of only three original oak forests remaining in Scotland. We soon discovered the farmhouse was split in two parts: ours, and theirs. Our neighbors were a bunch of rather sweet, but very hairy and smelly, Highland calves. The barn they called home came complete with a red Volkswagen Golf steeped deep in the muck. Don’t ask me why. . .

Islay is definitely off the beaten track. Creature comforts don't rate highly here, nor do tourists. The island has much to offer and has kept its rural atmosphere. The 3,500-strong population appears to ignore Islay’s massive tourism potential. Its economy relies mostly on farming, fishing and whisky production – the island is home to seven distilleries, including Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Bowmore. Driving from one to the other takes no time at all, but be warned! The distilleries are closed at weekends although occasionally open on Sundays – call ahead to book yourself on a tour, and check availability.

Laphroaig is ancient Gaelic and translates as “the beautiful hollow by the broad bay.” The distillery tour is well worth doing as the manager, Iain Henderson, takes you through the entire process and invites you to finish off by sampling a dram or two. Needless to say, this is a popular plan with the brave few who have made the journey.

The taste of Laphroaig's single-malt whisky is absolutely unique and is attributed to the harsh weather, the soft water, the peat and the quality of the barley, as well as the ancient craftsmen's skill passed on down the generations. Iain is retiring this year, but the warm welcome will surely be a constant at Laphroaig. Die-hard fans can also join the Friends of Laphroaig club and even purchase a square foot plot on the island.

Other ways to enjoy Islay

Other pursuits on Islay include hunting, horse riding, cycling and walking for outdoorsy types. For wildlife enthusiasts, depending on the season, there is also a chance to go dolphin, whale or seal spotting. Bird watchers will find the rare Corncrake at home in the summer and, in autumn, the island’s Loch Gruinart reserve becomes a haven for 60,000 barnacle and white fronted geese flown in from Greenland. Other feathered visitors include eagles, choughs, migrant waders and ducks.

Golf fiends will find their heart’s desire at the Machrie Golf Course, established in 1891. The 18-hole course benefits from stunning sea views, sand dunes and blind shots. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, play goes on year-round, but fair weather golfers beware! For fishing fans, there are wild brown trout aplenty in the lochs, while salmon fill the rivers. Should you visit in September you can attend the Bowmore Fly Fishing European Championships.

For those keen to find out more about the island’s heritage, the visitor’s center at Loch Finlaggan near Port Askaig, and the Port Charlotte Museum of Islay Life trace back the Islay’s busy history and reveal more secrets lost in time. Another site of interest, a stone’s throw from Lagavulin, is the ruins of Dunivaig Castle, a medieval fortress built as a clan stronghold. The great Clan Donald is said to have chosen Islay as the seat of its lordship because the location was well beyond reach of mainland monarchs.

If you have more time on the island and want to explore further afield, venture off to other nearby islands such as Jura, where George Orwell wrote 1984.

Our evenings were spent sipping local whisky by the fireplace and putting the world to rights until the early hours. Days were spent driving around the island past villages with small, single-storey terraced houses lining the foreshore, walking along the beaches, seal spotting and desperately seeking somewhere inviting to eat.

Good eateries don't come easy on Islay. We came across the Croft Kitchen, a cozy café, totally unpretentious, comfortable and full of surprises. As we started on our second course of hearty sausages and mash, NATO's very own Lord Robertson sat down behind us. Whether this is a mark of sophistication or if there simply isn't anywhere else to go, I just don't know!

Islay is one of those rare places where one can still enjoy a genuine experience. This may be at the expense of comfort and ease, but it's the perfect place to get away from it all. You can tell who belongs and who doesn’t. here, nature rules. The waves, the wildlife, the whisky are what it’s all about.

It's a rare treat to come across such a rough and ready place, and that alone is something to cherish. How many places retain their original, rugged and rustic feel? Where else can you breathe in the fresh salty air, walk up hills fighting the wind, and sit in your car while a herd of Highland cows ponder where to head to next? Patience is not a virtue here, it's a necessity.

Islay is a gentle, remote spot far from the madding crowd, which will no doubt make frantic city-dwellers re-assess their priorities.

For an ordinary visitor Islay is the ideal place to get back to basics but for the whisky devotee, it is a pilgrimage.

Events:

May: Islay Whisky Festival
June: Islay Festival and Islay Mod
July: Islay Half Marathon
September: Islay Jazz Festival

Rowena Carr-Allinson is a freelance author living in London and editor of Hipvoyages.com. Her articles have appeared in a number of UK and online publications.