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Volume 7, February 2005 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Archipelago and Islands of Chile |
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This tiny
group of islands, located some 400 miles off the Chilean coast, includes what is
probably literature's most famous “deserted” island. Isla Robinson Crusoe is
the very island on which the Scottish mariner Alexander Selkirk was marooned for
over four years: His recollections of the ordeal gave rise to Daniel Defoe's
famous novel and the sranded-on-an-island dreams that so many share.
Isla
Robinson Crusoe has the archipelago's only permanent population, centered in and
around the town of San Juan Bautista, with a local economy based largely on the
harvest of delicious spiny lobsters. Tourism in the islands is decidedly
low-key, with a number of comfortable pensions and restaurants available in San
Juan Bautista. Hiking trails, fishing, bird watching and diving are all
excellent options for active travelers. Chiloe The Isla
Grande of Chiloé is South America's largest island and among its most striking
cultural anomalies. Divided by the gentle peaks of the Coast Range, Chiloé's
eastern and western coasts are two worlds apart. To the west is a wilderness of
endless beaches, dune habitat, and temperate rainforests, much of it protected
in one of Chile's most forgotten national parks. To the east are the scattered
islands of the Chiloé archipelago, sheltered from Pacific storms, intensely
cultivated, home to a traditional culture of subsistence farmers, fishermen, and
craftsmen.
Over the
course of two centuries, the Spanish population mixed with the native, and all
learned to make do with what limited resources could be culled from the sea, the
forest and the earth. Meanwhile, the Jesuit order made this corner of the earth
its special responsibility, erecting schools and over 200 elegant wooden
churches, nine of which are now protected as national monuments. A rich
mythology – populated by strange trolls, sea monsters, and eerie ghost ships
– is yet another mark of Chiloé's singular history. Today,
Chiloé balances wild, unbridled nature with one of South America's most
remarkable traditional cultures. Renowned for its seafood, its woolen
handicrafts, and the warmth of its people, Chiloé is still a largely unknown
destination for walking and biking, fishing, paddling and birding. Easter Island Easter
Island is a destination that seems to inhabit our subconscious. The image of
those great stone moai with their backs to the vast Pacific strikes some chord
within us, recalls some ancient, creative urge. This is
the world's most isolated bit of land, a tiny pinprick in the great Pacific, a
mound of consolidated lava and ash from three submarine volcanoes. The natives
call their island Rapa Nui or Te Pito o Te Henua, "the navel of the
earth."
European
sailors visiting the island found that the natives could not explain the
construction and transport of the great moai megaliths, the largest of which
exceeds 60 feet in height. Nor could they decipher the rongo rongo tablets whose
hieroglyphic script appears to be a forgotten form of written language.
Somewhere in the past – a past that seems to have seesawed from ancestor
worship, monument building and population growth, to deforestation and food
shortages, feuding and in some cases even cannibalism – the old knowledge had
been lost. It is the mystery of these disappeared artisans, and the awesome
presence of their works, which continues to draw scientists and seekers from
across the globe. Today,
Rapa Nui National Park protects most of the island's archaeological sites, and
the native todomiro forests that once graced the island are being replanted.
Opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding abound on the
island, while a rich marine ecosystem of corals and colorful tropical fish makes
Easter Island a prime destination for scuba diving and snorkeling. Courtesy of Tourism Promotion Corporation of Chile
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