Fringed by black, white and green sand beaches, Hawaii’s Big Island is the youngest and by far the biggest of the Hawaiian archipelago. Its volcanic center is overrun by tracts of black lava that spill into the pounding Pacific Ocean. One kind of lava, pahoehoe, has the appearance of melted licorice, while the other type, known as a’a, is rough and spiny. 

Any visitor flying into Kona will wing over a desolate landscape of a’a but, as on the rest of this 4,050-square-mile island, the vista will dramatically change within a short distance. Leafy tropical chasms give way to misty barren mountain slopes; lush green pastures are dotted with lifeless cinder cones; sleeping mountains are capped with snow, while further down their slopes, the earth quivers atop a fiery volcanic furnace.

When novelist Mark Twain penned the following observations in 1866, the world's most active volcano, Mauna Loa, must have been having one of her fiery temper tantrums:

"At unequal distances all around the shores of the lake were nearly white-hot chimneys or hollow drums of lava, four or five feet high, and up through them were bursting gorgeous sprays of lava gouts and gem spangles, some white, or red and some golden – a ceaseless bombardment."

Today things are a little quieter, but there is still much to see in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Mauna Loa (long mountain), is 13,677' high and its summit is only accessible to experienced hikers. Much further down its flanks, however, is the Kilauea Caldera at 4,000' which has excellent visitor centers and well-marked trails. Imagine a boiled egg with its top sliced off. 

When you reach the top of the Kilauea Caldera, you can take an 11-mile drive round the "yolk" of the "egg". Begin at the Kilauea Visitor Center where you can watch videos and obtain a variety of brochures and maps. At intervals, park rangers give interesting orientation talks and an update on the volcano's activity level. 

We were calmly informed that Mauna Loa -- the most massive mountain on earth -- could erupt at any minute. However, we were assured there was no reason for concern as a team of scientists was vigilantly monitoring the caldera with sophisticated equipment. I wondered about the size of a thermometer used to record the magma at 2,192 degrees Fahrenheit.....

We were advised to drive counter-clockwise around the caldera (a Spanish word that means "cauldron"). Our leisurely walk took us along the Steaming Bluffs Trail where wisps of steam rose from rock fissures. After a stop at the Jaggar Museum, we headed half way round the caldera to the viewpoint which overlooks the Halema'uma'u Crater -- a crater within a crater. From here we took a fascinating walk to lava caves and the Byron Ledge Trail. 

Fire and brimstone take on a whole new dimension on this walk, and signs warn visitors that volcanic fumes can compound heart and respiratory problems. It can be hot walking across the lava fields as there is little shade, so bring a sunhat, wear sturdy shoes rather than sandals, and carry your own water.

Devastation Trail. photo by Hamish Jackson

Three quarters of the way around the drive, enjoy an easy walk along Devastation Trail. A boardwalk is laid out atop a 10-foot-deep layer of cinders and pumice that was formed in 1959. Today a skeletal forest of naked trees lie testimony to the last eruption. One of the last stops is a short walk through the Thurston Lava Tube, gouged out by a lava flow. Access is via a path which wends its way downwards underneath a canopy of giant tree ferns, home of many exotic birds. 

Now that you have come full circle, you might want to visit the Volcano Art Center Gallery or have a snack at The Volcano House Hotel perched right on the edge of the caldera. You will be following the footsteps of many notables. Mark Twain stayed here in 1866 and Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1934. Linger for a few moments beside the lava rock fireplace where the fire has been burning continuously for 125 years.

Travel tips:

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park is 30 miles (48 km) southwest of Hilo and 95 miles (153 km) southeast of Kona. It took us over three hours to drive from Kona. The only entrance is off Highway 11, south of Hilo and east of Kona. The park is open every day round the clock.