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Winter in Greece

By Joyce Helfand, OPA Tours Greece

Winter in Greece has something for everyone and everything for some!

It is natural to think of Greece as a sunny, picture postcard island with blue sea and sky. Even in winter you may be pleasantly surprised to find that same image is true in a few of the Aegean Islands.

On the Grecian mainland in northwestern Epirus you can visit the tiny villages of Zagorhorio and feel that you are in a setting more evocative of Switzerland than the Mediterranean. You will find rugged snow- covered mountains and deeply forested landscapes dotted with hamlets and icy, rushing rivers spanned by handcrafted stone bridges.

In northeastern Greece, the prefecture of Macedonia is a virtual archeological paradise, with the ancient sites of Pela, Vergina, Dion and Philippi all easily accessible. The capital, Thessaloniki, a wonderful cosmopolitan city with a spectacular seaside promenade, pays homage to its great Byzantine heritage.

If you are a ski aficionado, forget Aspen, Gstaad, and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Instead try Delphi. Yes, Delphi -- the historical site, with its spectacular ruins that is such a magnet for tourists the rest of the year, has become a popular winter destination for skiers. The quaint mountain town of Arahova, only a few minutes from Delphi, is a perfect place to stay while skiing on the slopes of Mount Parnassos. 

You'll find other ski resorts in Pigadia, in western Macedonia, and in Thessaly, in central Greece. Karpenisi has ski facilities and a luxury chalet-like hotel called Montana Club, a great place to stay even if you never don a pair of skis but just want to enjoy the splendid scenery in this mountain town, only a few hours drive from Athens.

If you prefer a little more sun, try southern Greece – deep in the Peloponnese. A lovely route begins in Athens and follows the Gulf of Salamis to Nafplion, a charming, neoclassical town and first capital of modern Greece. Continue traveling south, hugging the eastern shore to Gibraltar-like Monemvasia, located in a captivating fairytale setting. 

Now head west to the middle “finger” of the Peloponnese and Mani, a remote part of the country where the austere topography will remind you of the Wild West with a prevalence of rocks and cactus. Here, the Greeks built tall stone towers as defense structures in ongoing vendettas with other families. Many towers dot this lunar-like landscape and some have been converted to comfortable little hotels.

From the Mani, you have several choices, depending upon time and taste. You can continue on to the third westernmost peninsula of the Peloponnese, called Messina, and then travel north to Olympia and from there journey along the northern coast of the Peloponnnese to Corinth and the few hours back to Athens.

If time does not permit this grand excursion, one of the best options is to head north from Mani through the region known as Lakonia, the site of ancient Sparta, set along the snow-capped Tayegetos Mountains. Very little of old Sparta is left to see, but it’s still a thrill to set foot in this celebrated location. Less than 15 minutes from Sparta is Mystras an important late Byzantine center of culture where the remains of an entire city can be seen. A hike through its castles, churches and small homes is very rewarding.

From Sparta, the National Road proceeds north to Tripolis and east again to Nafplion. From here you can visit Mycenae, Epidavros and Tyrins, and a new excavation at Nemea where the American School of Archaeology has very recently uncovered some amazing and important finds. And if you like your archaeological sites solely to yourself, this one is sure to fit the bill. Before heading back to Athens, stop at the Canal of Corinth to see not only this spectacular feat of engineering, but to sample the traditional souvlaki – little bits of grilled pork on a skewer that are sold at the stands here. 

If you still need an island fix. . .

If those islands still beckon, forget about Santorini and Mykonos, which are windy and cold in winter, and head further south to Rhodes or Crete. Rhodes is a virtual all-year tourist destination where you can easily find facilities and accommodations. Even if the winter waters are less than ideal, there are daily flights to both islands from Athens, which is less than an hour away. In Rhodes the main highlight is the old medieval town, but you can also take an excursion to Lindos to visit the beautiful Temple of Athena. In summer, the swell of tourists makes this a very disagreeable destination, but in winter it is stunning. The village of Lindos is a jewel, with pebbled walkways and old seafarers’ mansions.

Crete is the epitome of Greece, and if you only visit one island of the hundreds that are possible, this should be it! You can fly to the capital, Heraklion, or as I prefer, fly instead to Hania a picturesque port in the western part of the island. Stay for a day or two in one of the old town’s small hotels. Be sure to see the splendid covered market and the town’s small but prized archaeological museum, as well as the remnants of a thriving Venetian presence. The newly restored synagogue is also worth a visit. 

From here, you have two options: The first is to drive south and explore southern Crete. See Frangocastelo and Sphakia, and hike through the gorge of Samaria, where you will see flora found nowhere elsewhere in the world. You might even be able to swim on the south coast in mid-winter where the warm air from Libya often makes the sea pleasurable.

A second choie is to drive east, where you must stop in Rethymnon even if it is just for an hour or so. Vestiges of Ottoman occupation are evident at every turn. Journey on to the capital of Heraklion where you can spend at least one night. The Galaxy Hotel is pleasant. 

A visit to the ancient site at Knosos is bound to be one of the best parts of your visit on Crete. Here you can hire the services of a local guide who will lead you through this amazing Minoan labyrinth (and in winter, mercifully with a minimum of tourists_. As Nikos Kazantzakis, the author of Zorba the Greek and himself a Cretan said of Knosos, “Reigning here are imagination, grace and the free play of man’s creative power.” From Heraklion it is a short flight back to Athens.

Of course, not to be forgotten, is a winter visit to Athens. It much less crowded and expensive than in summer. It has a magnificent subway system that not only transports you easily all over the city, but each station is a mini-museum in itself. The jewel in the crown of Athens, is the Acropolis -- a site it would be a life-long regret on your part to miss. And if you still want to see the islands, you might try the one-day cruise offered year-round which departs in the morning from Piraeus, Athens’ harbor and visits Aegina, Hydra and Poros, before returning in the evening.

So, you see, with a little planning, there is absolutely no “off season” in Greece.