Monemvassia: "Where the scenery is as harsh as the silence." Yannis Ritsos

It was poetry that first brought me to Monemvassia, a medieval fortress ferociously hugging the cliffs of a monolithic rock. On a rusty magazine rack in the Greek village of Molyvos I spied a slim blue volume by Greek-American poetess Eleni Fourtouni. Titled simply Monemvassia, it detailed the passionate and sensual love affair between the author and a French stranger. They met while wandering the deserted craggy ruins of the old upper city. Enthralled, I resolved to traverse those same cliffs during one of my annual sojourns to the Greek Isles. 

Eleni was not the only poet inspired by this Greek Rock of Gibraltar. Rough-hewn marauding Turks, who held the rock for 150 years, referred to it lyrically as Menexe Kalesi, the “Flower Castle.” To the Byzantines who established its wealth and physical character in its formative years, it was the "Castle in the Clouds." For the Franks, who cultivated and craved the renowned Malmsy wine, it was the "Gibraltar of the East." 

Yannis Ritsos, one of the most prolific and beloved poets in modern Greece, was born in Monemvassia. As a writer, Ritsos brought the personal drama and the tragedy of his early life and his homeland into his work. His themes focused both on the classical heroes of Greek mythology and the simple moments of day-to-day life in Greek villages. His work is widely read and an annual poetry festival in Monemvassia celebrates his genius. 

The Ritsos family home lies just inside the cave-like entrance after which the village is named: moni (one) embasia (entrance). It is crumbling in decay, but from the spacious verandah a bronze bearded bust of the handsome poet stares south to the sea, a peace symbol attached to his open-throated shirt. Ritsos house is a propitious point to begin a tour of the lower village.  

The narrow, cobbled main street sets the stage for a walk back in time. All the old structures are alike in design: slim, barrel-vaulted rooms visible from an open door or window. These served as the businesses and workshops of artisans and merchants, including saddle makers, tailors, tanners, bakers and wine producers. Main Street survives as the marketplace of the castle, though it’s now boutiques, and antique and souvenir shops that prevail. In previous incarnations, merchants lived on the second story, but now all of them escape for the winter, leaving a paltry 65 inhabitants in the castle. 

A few steps down on the left, Maria's Sweet Shop is a charming place to stop for fresh orange juice, or to sample the traditional pastries unique to Monemvassia. Amygdalota, a petite cake made of almonds and draped with sugared icing, is a local favorite, and the courambies, diples and skaltsouni are laced with enough honey to make your teeth tingle. 

Main Street's eateries

For larger appetites, Main Street boasts three local tavernas: Matoula is the first to beckon. An older, traditional restaurant, the lush garden setting makes up for indifferent food and service. It's impossible to miss Marianthi, as most of the seating is on the street. If you don't mind sightseers eyeballing your moussaka, you'll enjoy home cooking while watching the world traipse by.

The superior experience is To Kanoni, where Mary Yovannis and family serve continental cuisine of high standards, complemented by antique decor and served with a sense of humor. The balcony tables have striking views of the azure Aegean, or Christos Elkomenos, the largest and oldest church (c. 1000 A.D.) in the castle. Teddy Kennedy brought a sweet young thing here a few years ago for fresh lobster, and several summer's ago Barbara Bush treated her grandchildren to soft drinks at one of the wooden tables. 

Monemvassia cannot be visited without sampling Malmsy wine. Rhapsodized by medieval troubadours and Elizabethan playwrights, this sugary grape was the Cordon Rouge of its day. Sieges of the city were laid simply to score a few hundred bottles. During Turkish rule, the Muslims allowed the orchards to decay, but some old vines have survived. 

The town square next to the church tower is an entryway to traverse the lower town. The courtyard is host to a deserted mosque, as well as the aforementioned church, housing several old icons. Due to the confines of the protective walls, the town’s plazas are comparatively small, and only churches occupy large amounts of space. There are nine Byzantine churches still in existence, out of 40 that once time served the community. Panagia Chrysafitissa further down toward the sea wall hosts a famed icon of the Virgin Mary, which, according to local lore, flew there on its own. Later retrieved by irate members of Crysafa village, it refused to stay put and flew back again the next day. 

Roaming through the lower town, the visitor is impressed with the unique architectural touches that give Monemvassia its special character. During its populous medieval period, approximately 8,000 inhabitants lived here. Buildings rose to three and four stories, with superstructures built on arches draped over subterranean passages, ensuring security and economizing on space. All the buildings face south, and on clear days one may even spy the mountains of Crete. 

Wandering through the meandering streets, it is fun to spot old pargetings – pictorial representations of eagles, lions and other animals – that once served as addresses for the houses. Here and there one finds the Lion of Saint Mark, emblem of the Venetian empire. 

The entire lower town is a designated archaeological site, and anyone wishing to build there must adhere to strict codes. Different levels of rooms, vaults, open fireplaces, cisterns and terraces are all dictated by history. Some wealthy Greeks and Europeans are creating beautifully restored summer homes among the ruins.  

Trekking to the upper town

Those in sturdy shape should explore the ruined upper town. In spring it bursts with pink and purple violas, and in fall it is blanketed in cyclames. In summer, only oleander survives, and hikers should avoid the harsh midday sun. Any shopkeeper can direct you to the beginning of the path. Designed to repel attacks, horizontal parapets, loopholes and pinnacles enabled the defenders to destroy their assailants head-on and sideways. Boiling oil was poured on those who tried to traverse the rock. However, it was just as difficult for the residents to scale the peak as the attacker, and everything had to come up either by human energy or by donkey. Former residents of the upper town without thighs of iron must have languished in their homes.   

All visitors enter the through a heavy wooden door pocked with bullet holes. Prison cells and guard houses line the gloomy entryway, preceding the vast ruins and rubble, dotted with olive and fig trees. Political stability allowed the citizens of Monemvassia to prosper, and the wealthiest inhabitants lived here in four-story mansions. Its heyday was during the Middle Ages, when Monemvassia occupied two thirds of the plateau. 

Only one building remains in reasonable condition: Hagia Sophia, a Byzantine church partially built with the marble plundered from ancient Greek temples at neighboring Epidauros. A lusty olive tree in front provides a shady rest stop and still provides oil for church lamps. Mosaic tiles on the ceiling and floors are still visible and worth a look. 

If you have excellent balance, veer off the main path to a tiny cave holding a chapel with candles and incense. Dedicated to a young Greek girl who was abducted and raped by a Turk, her enraged male relatives slew the rapist and threw poor Roxani off the cliffs to her death. Subsequent eerie moans and howls from the place where she fell prompted the guilty family to build a chapel in her memory. 

Hot summer days in Monemvassia are relieved with a refreshing swim. A tunnel through the massive southern sea wall, historically  the weakest spot in the fortification, leads to a small cement bathing dock and clear, clean water. Another larger swimming area is located off the road to the castle, and the town of Yfira contains several beaches. 

Monemvassia has been discovered by the Athenians, who flock here on summer weekends. Foreign visitors, excepting day-trippers, are still rare. Exploring the fortress interior can take several days as one settles into the past.  Any visitor enamored of Greek islands will find poetry in the ruins of Monemvassia.  

The Flying Dolphin hydrofoils from Pireus/Zea harbor from July 1 through Sept. 12. The Dolphin makes daily stops; other times of the year its docking is limited. The ferry to Athens harbors twice a week. Hotel Byzantino has simple but beautifully furnished upstairs rooms with sea views for $58.- $72. The staff is chilly, but at least a small minibus transports visitors from the harbor. (0732) 61254. FAX 61331.