Among the Americans who have traveled to Asia, those who have visited Thailand are quick to place it among their favorite travel destinations. A land of magnificent architecture, scenic beaches, a bountiful supply of spirit houses, incredible food and smiling people – never mind among some of  the most affordable travel available – it quickly captures the imagination and attention of the serious traveler.    

Best known for its elephants and beaches, and the splendor of the royal palace complex in Bangkok, Thailand has long been a popular destination for European and Australian tourists. It was more recently discovered by Americans who can now recite names such as Phuket, and Pattaya and Chiang Mai.  Not as familiar to them, though, is Chiang Rai. 

Chiang Rai lies in a beautiful valley surrounded by majestic mountains near the northern border with Burma, now also known as Myanmar. Though it lies only an 80-minute flight from Bangkok, it is quite different from both Bangkok and its neighboring city, Chiang Mai. Chiang Rai is much smaller, quieter, friendlier and less crowded than the other two cities, yet it offers some of the most interesting opportunities for travel in Thailand. It is also a starting point for travel into the notorious Golden Triangle. 

A land of myth, fable, and the “stuff of legends,” as the story tellers say it, the Golden Triangle actually is the area where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet and where their borders are defined by the convergence of the Ruak and Mekong rivers. With its ability to conjure up images of Chinese warlords, smuggling, poppy fields and opium, the Golden Triangle has provided the intrigue, the mystery and excitement, and the romance and adventure of many stories. Today, it also offers the tourist a chance to enjoy a variety of experiences and see a part of Thailand that has not changed as much as elsewhere in the country. 

A good place to begin one’s visit to the Golden Triangle is in the small town of Chiang Saen. A short drive along narrow roads through the rice fields and farms brings you to this former capital of the Lanna Kingdom, which preceded modern Thailand. It is much older than Chiang Rai and modern Thailand, and the latter’s early capitals of Sukhothai and Ayuthaya. One can easily visit the ancient ruins of the capital and its particularly good National Museum during a short visit.  

Be sure to stop at the small shrine on the main road where you will hear the honking horn of every passing car as respect is shown to the spirits. Moss-covered stupas and eroded busts of the Buddha and bodhisattvas lying in the shade of ancient trees are a photographer’s delight. Within a short drive you can make your way to the edge of town and board a long-tailed boat which will take you up the Mekong River to the heart of the Golden Triangle. 

Aside from the noise of your sleek boat, you can sit back and imagine you are in any time in Thai history that you choose. You can see water buffalo making their way to the river, and women washing clothes and children playing in the water. The sandy river banks, which can rise 20 or 30 feet, are often slipping and sliding, and the small, rustic villages that occasionally reveal themselves through the thick vegetation appear as they must have for centuries.  

Midway through your ride, be sure that your driver stops at the little island which comes into view and is owned by Laos. Though visas to Laos are expensive and time-consuming, you can stop at this island for merely a small fee given to the guard who will be waiting near the dock. It is a good place to have some refreshments and to buy a souvenir or two, and you will be able to honestly say that you were actually on Laotian soil. 

When you reach the actual center of the Golden Triangle, your driver will most likely take you along the shores of each of the three countries. As your long-tail boat races past cultures and history, it will be easy to believe that this area is rich with intrigue and mystery. Upon stopping to return to ground transportation, one of my favorite places to have lunch, the Imperial Golden Triangle Resort, is only a couple of minutes away.  From its restaurant one can look directly at the juncture of Burma, Laos and Thailand. It’s also a good place to view the Lanna architecture that is unique to this part of Thailand. Be sure to make reservations in advance if you want to stay overnight. 

A short drive west along the Ruak River brings you to the town of Mae Sai where you can get a day pass and walk across the bridge into Tak Lek, Burma. By hiring a trishaw you can quickly make your way to a Burmese temple, a Shan village and a lively outdoor market before returning to Thailand. Be sure to wander the narrow passageways of the Shan village, visiting the women working at their looms and ready to bargain with you over the price of their woven goods. Also be sure to visit the central market near the bridge leading back to Thailand. Here you can get good bargains on a variety of interesting items, both Burmese and imports from China. 

A beloved queen’s residence

Since it is only a short drive from Mae Sai back to Chiang Rai, this is an excellent time to visit the summer palace and gardens of the Queen Mother. Highly respected by the Thai people and the tribes that have migrated from Burma and Laos into this part of Thailand, she has chosen to have her home north of Chiang Rai in the cool mountains that surround the lush valleys of the area. Under her sponsorship many of the hill tribes are gaining the education and skills needed to assimilate into the Thai culture. Many of these skills are demonstrated well in the beautiful gardens which sprawl over the hills below her residence.  

A variety of hill tribes make their villages in the mountains near Chiang Rai. Several can be visited by driving only short distances. It is best to visit a least two or three belonging to different tribes. Akha, Lisu, Yao, Karen, and Hmong are among the numerous names tribal names you will hear. Each of the ethnic minorities has its own characteristics, some of which are readily distinguishable. Among the most recent to settle in the area are members of the Padong tribe, who are well-known for the numerous rings worn by the women and girls on their necks that appear to cause their necks to stretch. The tribes come from different areas in Asia and bring with them a variety of languages, customs, dress and beliefs. Many have handicrafts which they are anxious to sell.   

By using Chiang Rai as one’s base, any of these areas can be visited in less than a day or combined to make a day-trip. Be sure to hire a guide and car or van with driver. It is safer, easier, and inexpensive to just sit back and enjoy the trip than to drive it oneself. In fact, an air-conditioned eight-passenger van with driver, gasoline, and English-speaking guide can normally be hired for $100. or less per day. I usually stay in a resort along the Kok River where you can also hire a long-tail boat to take you upriver to tribal villages. On the river, within a few hours you can travel to a tribal village, ride elephants, and stop at a hillside cave temple on your return and never have to hire a car. You also will have had a chance to witness the slow pace of life along this river, which is different from the much larger Mekong.   

Try to spend at least three days in the Chiang Rai/Golden Triangle area. This will allow you to have some free time to enjoy the facilities of your resort, to explore the temples, shops, and monuments of this former capital of the Lanna Kingdom, and, if you want, experience a Thai massage. I always use either the Dusit Island Resort or the Rimkok Resort. Though they are among the finest in the area, they are still reasonably priced (and don’t forget to bargain). Most things in Thailand are subject to bargaining and hotels are no exception.  Both are along the river, and the Dusit Island Resort actually sits on an island in the river. Both serve good buffet breakfasts, but go to town for your dinner. Chiang Rai has excellent restaurants with very reasonable prices, including its version of the well-known Bangkok restaurant, Cabbages and Condoms.   

Though one of the most remote areas of Thailand, the Golden Triangle and Chiang Rai are easily accessible by air from Bangkok and most other major Thai airports. Perhaps it should be a little more remote – already its majestic mountains, cooler, more enjoyable. climate, generous variety of activities and side trips, and its friendly and relaxed atmosphere have destined it to be among the most popular of Thailand’s tourist destinations. That you can still visit there and not feel that you are in a tourist area is a secret that should not be shared.