On my way from Prague to Vienna, I discovered an area of Austria that is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site – the Wachau Valley. With its steep, rising hills, quaint baroque villages, ancient monuments, and over 50 wineries, this is the most beautiful stretch of landscape along the Danube.  I also stayed at two wonderful hotels in two of the many quaint towns along the way. 

My first stop was the monastery-dominated town of Melk, Austria. After a short walk from the train station, I checked into the Hotel Stadt Melk, located right on the town square.  Part of the square is pedestrian-only, and there’s little traffic. 

Hermann and Gertrude Wallner, who are exceptionally accommodating and speak fluent English, run the hotel. With a canopied balcony and offering a great view over the town center, my room was on the front of the hotel. The balcony, the service and the great food served in Hotel Stadt Melk’s dining room and on its vine-covered terrace were the ingredients that made this stop such a wonderful experience. 

On my first day, I visited the famous Melk Abbey. You can’t miss it – just look up. The magnificent abbey, which dominates the town on its promontory above the Danube, is a baroque masterpiece. Built over the years from 1702 to 1736, it is a grand link in Melk’s 1,000-year history as the spiritual and cultural center of Lower Austria.  

The abbey is comprised of a church, a terrace with views of the Danube Valley, and a library containing 100,000 volumes, including 1,200 medieval manuscripts. The abbey’s marble hall and frescoes by artist Paul Troger are alone worth the visit. There’s also a permanent exhibit that illustrates both the history and current situation of the monastery. The abbey also offers visitors a delightful wine garden – the ideal place to have a glass of superb Austrian wine after your tour.  

My first morning in Melk, I was awakened by the “great bong.”  All of the abbey’s bells ring energetically at 6 a.m. for at least five minutes. The previous afternoon I noticed many of the shops in town opened at 7 a.m. and thought that this was exceptionally early. I understood why – once the “great bong” occurs, most residents in Melk are wide-awake. 

Melk is also the ideal place to rent a bicycle and tour some of the Wachau Valley. There’s a wonderful flat bike path that runs along the banks of the Danube. On my second day, that’s exactly what I did. I went to a local deli, bought a sandwich and bottled water, and took off for a day of biking along the Danube. 

One of the reasons I just adored the Hotel Stadt Melk was after my bicycle ride when I bought a bottle of Gruner Veltliner (one of Austria’s wonderful white wines) and leisurely drank my wine while sitting on my balcony watching the world walk, bike and drive by. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day.  

On my third day in the Wachau Valley, I took one of the Danube ferryboats to Durnstein. The two-hour ride was superb, gliding by castles on promontories overlooking the river, abbeys off in the distance – I viewed all of this while sitting comfortably in the boat’s lounge sipping Austrian wine. (The reason for my frequent indulgence: I found Austrian wines to be superb.) 

Durnstein is a town where history comes alive. It’s full of small lanes lined with ancient buildings while its  famous ruins rise high above the town. You can see the ruins of the 12th century castle where Richard the Lionhearted was held prisoner on his way back to England from the Crusades after a heart-pounding uphill climb. The view is magnificent overlooking the river and valley below.  

The historic hotel where I stayed, the Richard Lowenherz, is a structure from the middle ages. It was formerly a convent of the order of St. Clare. A great location and character are why this hotel enjoys a four-star rating. My room, decorated with antique furniture, had a fine view that overlooked the Danube. The entire hotel was full of beautiful antiques even in its hallways. 

In the terrace restaurant perched over the Danube, I enjoyed excellent cuisine with first-class service and more superb Austrian wine. In the hotel’s spacious, dreamy cloister gardens there was a large swimming pool that was practically empty when I was there. The gardens and pool were perfect places to rest and relax after touring this town built on a cliff -- most walks around Durnstein require steep climbs. 

Durnstein is the perfect place to stay while touring vineyards. There are many wineries in the immediate area, easily accessible by bicycle. For those less enthusiastic about wine or bicycling, sitting on the Hotel Richard Lowenherz’s terrace watching boats glide by is an equally pleasant way to spend time. 

Both hotels turned out to be real gems that meant so much more to my trip than simply places to stay.  Regardless of how much or how little sightseeing a traveler wants to do, the Wachau has it all.