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Volume 6, July 2004 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Ancient Sites of the Emerald Isle
By Lora
Meisner,
E Com Communications |
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Since
my husband and I are both history buffs, we did some homework and were able to
take full advantage of the wealth of that country’s ancient and historic
sites. Though we only toured in west and southwestern Ireland, we found several
areas dense with sites left by people from various ages. Our
trip began in County Clare and the Burren. The name Burren is a Celtic word that
means “stony place.” This giant limestone formation has remained virtually
the same since the Ice Age and is the largest of its kind in Western Europe. Though
bleak in appearance, this terrain is also home to the unusual and rare of
plants, including an improbable collection of alpine and Mediterranean species
growing together. Whoever the ancient peoples who lived here were, they
certainly couldn’t be farmers in this strange terrain. This
area does have some of the finest archaeological megalithic tombs in Western
Europe. There are relics of human habitation dating back almost 6,000 years and
in this area alone, there are more than 60 wedge tombs – the densest
concentration in Ireland. (Wedge tombs are megalithic structures distinguished
by their being taller and wider at their entrances than at their rears, thus,
“wedge.”) After
visiting the spectacular Cliffs of Mohar, we toured the Burren and stopped at
the Portal Dolmen (also called the Poulnabrone Portal Tomb). It is situated in
the spectacular starkness of the limestone uplands, which makes it an especially
fine example of a portal dolmen – a Neolithic tomb. In 1986, excavations here
unearthed the bones of 14 adults and six children, pieces of pottery and stone
artifacts, which led to the conclusion that the tomb was in use about 2,500 B.C.
Just down the road from the Portal Dolmen is the Cahercommaun ring fort, one of
approximately 500 in the area.
Various
peoples have lived here for more than 6,000 years and because of the remoteness
of the area, 2,000+ monuments have remained well preserved. Starting in the
Mesolithic Period, to the Stone and Bronze ages, and through the Iron Age, the
Dingle Peninsula was the locale for structures that have survived up to the
present day. About
six miles from Dingletown is a late Stone Age ring fort. It was a Celtic
chieftain’s headquarters, a stone and earth-filled stockade with little stone
houses. These were left untouched through the centuries due to the superstitions
of the locals – an example of Irish superstitions that proved to be positive. Just
a mile away is Dunbeg Fort, a series of defensive ramparts and ditches around
central clochan, or beehive hut, on cliffs overlooking the sea. This fort is an
important relic that dates back to Ireland’s Iron Age. Throughout this area
littered along the hillsides are beehive huts. At one time there were more than
400 of these dry stone, corbelled huts surviving. When entering one of the
better-preserved huts, it’s quite amazing how weather-tight they are after
several centuries. After
visiting the Celtic pillar stone, carved with Celtic scrollwork in the walled
Reasc Monastic enclosure, we drove to one of Dingle’s most famous sites, the
Gallarus Oratory. Gallarus is situated on farmland overlooking Smerwick Harbor
and has stood the test of time for over 1,200 years. It looks like an upturned
boat. This building of mortarless stone is still weatherproof, and once inside
you marvel at the quality this masterpiece’s stonework. Just
above Gallarus is Kilmalkedar, a ruined 12th-century church. In the
church is the famous Alphabet Stone, a standing pillar carved with both Roman
and Ogham* characters. Although there were many more ancient sites in the area,
we reserved our time for the most significant. Though
Dingle’s scenery was dramatic and beautiful, and we loved the wildness of the
area, all good things must come to an end. So, we headed to the less-traveled
Beara Peninsula rather than the tourist-filled Ring of Kerry. The
Beara Peninsula is also rich and abundant with historical sites, from burial
grounds to church sites. You can explore all types of historical antiquities
dating from all ages on the Beara Peninsula. The area is dotted with stone
circles, alignments and galluns (solitary standing stones, often pointed at the
top). There are also a number of ogham stones, including the largest in the
world. Ogham stones are tall pillar-like stones with ogham characters carved on
it. One
of the stone circles that we visited was the Derrintaggart Stone Circle. It is a
typical example of circles believed to have been constructed between 1,500 and
500 B.C., generally comprised of five to 19 stones arranged in a circle. The
locations of these circles suggest that the builders used them as ceremonial and
ritual centers. Another theory suggests that they were used as a type of
calendar relating to the setting and rising of the sun and moon. In
the lovely town of Kenmare, at the top of the peninsula, is one of the biggest
stone circles in southwest Ireland, local’s call it the “Druids Circle.”
Scholars believe that this circle may be oriented on the setting sun. In the
center of the circle is a boulder dolmen (a large horizontal stone laid atop
vertical stones to form a table or lintel), which is rather unique. Completing
our circle tour of western and southwestern Ireland, not far from Limerick, is
one of Ireland’s largest archaeological sites, Lough Gur. The first
inhabitants cleared land for farming here around 3,000 B.C. Gradually these
people learned how to use metals – bronze, then iron – to make their farm
work easier. There
are several major sites around Lough Gur. The Grange Stone Circle is one of
them. With its 113 stones, it’s the largest and finest stone circle in
Ireland, and was built around 2,000 B.C. A short distance away is a wedge tomb.
The tomb was communal grave dating back to about 2,500 B.C. Archaeologists found
the bones of at least eight adults and four children there, as well as some
cremated human bones. Vikings
and Anglo-Norman earls later invaded the community at Lough Gur, and eventually
the Celts lost their land to Queen Elizabeth I. After several centuries, it was
finally sold to the Limerick County Council in 1984.
So,
the next time you travel down an Irish country lane, take a look around; you may
be journeying among sites left by some Stone or Bronze Age peoples. Stop and
enjoy what they left behind for us to explore. Lora Meisner is a freelance travel writer and communications expert specializing in both online and print marketing.
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