Print   Close

My Favorite Walled Cities

By Jean Moss, Olde Ipswich Tours

I have so many favorite walled cities I couldn’t possibly fit all their names into one page.  I consider myself one of the luckiest people on earth because seeking out beautiful, fascinating, ancient walled cities is one of the things I do for a living.  For the sake of brevity, I will painfully limit myself to telling you about three of my favorites.

Rocamadour

This spectacular old city, built into the side of a cliff in the Quercy Valley of southwestern France, near the Dordogne River, has a remarkable history. According to legend, a hermit later called St. Amadour  came here to pray and live in seclusion in the first century A.D.  It wasn’t until 1166 that the legend sprouted a miracle, and the site became a holy shrine and important place of pilgrimage. Twelfth-century religious scholars spread the theory that St. Amadour was none other than Jesus’ disciple Zacchaeus.

From this date reports of miracles happening at the site spread rapidly. King Henry Plantagenet was one of the first pilgrims to come to Rocamadour to find a miraculous cure. St. Louis IX of France followed in the next century, and Rocamadour became as important as Mont St. Michel as a pilgrimage destination. Few people know that Rocamadour has thus become the second most visited site in France – after Mont St. Michel’s 12^th century monastery. 

Today, modern pilgrims crowd Rocamadour’s streets, which are lined with tempting boutiques and cafés, all facing onto the beautiful Alzou Gorge. I tell my guests not to be dismayed – tourists flocking to Rocamadour to buy souvenirs has been a historic occurrence for 900 years. And for 900 years shopkeepers have been selling the sportelle, a tiny souvenir medal that can only be purchased in Rocamadour, testifying to the fact that the owner has made the pilgrimage.

I would advise today’s visitors to avoid the traditional activity of climbing up the 216 stone steps on one’s knees, but instead to sign up for a guided walking tour on one’s feet. This fascinating tour will take you to four of the seven medieval chapels built into the rock, one of which contains the mysterious Black Madonna, venerated for over a thousand years. You’ll hear wonderful legends of how the body of St. Amadour was miraculously preserved for 1,100 years; how the ancient bell rings itself when a miracle occurs at sea; how the sword in the rock you see in front of you is really the famous sword of Roland. . . .

When you walk through the medieval cobblestone streets of this strikingly picturesque village, you can see eight of the original fortified gates in the ancient walls, built for defense and to control the flood of pilgrims. You can also walk along the ramparts of the castle ruins at the top of the village  And if you are as fortunate as I, you can float in a balloon from the valley below the cliff, up over the rooftops, chapels and city walls to look down for a perfect view of one of the most remarkable historic sites in the world.

Dinan

Another of my favorites is the beautiful medieval town of Dinan, unquestionably one of the most picturesque villages in not only Brittany, France, but all of Europe. Its nearly two miles of walls surrounding the ancient center give visitors a spectacular scenic walk. These medieval ramparts are the oldest and most extensive in Brittany. This impressive ring of fortifications includes a keep and 14 towers and monumental gateways. 

Inside the walls you feel as though you are living in another time. Few cars bother your imagination as you stroll along narrow cobblestone alleys, passing half-timbered houses, convents, chapels and delightful 13^th-century squares. Since there are no large hotels here, enjoy this extraordinary glimpse of history without the crowds of tourists. Enjoy a crêpe and glass of hard cider at a Breton café, stroll through Dinan’s lively market, take a boat ride on the Rance River, and enjoy the shops full of handcrafts and Brittany’s famous Quimper ceramics. 

A guided walking tour of the old center is a delightful way to explore the castle and its tower, built by Anne of Brittany, numerous historic monuments, beautiful vistas from the ramparts and streets that tell a thousand years of history. I could easily spend a month or two in this charming city and not have time to try every tempting crêperie or irresistible café.

Montepulciano

Even if I didn't love Italian wines so much, I would not want to miss this incredible walled hilltop Tuscan town.  Founded in 319 B.C., Montepulciano was an Etruscan town before being conquered by the Romans. Again, a walking tour led by a local licensed guide is the best way to understand something of its fascinating history and be sure not to miss any of its outstanding monuments.

The main walls of the city we see today were built for defense by the Medici rulers in the 16^th century and are very well preserved. The original walls are much older. Sections of these 13^th and 14^th century walls can still be seen today, with a number of arched gateways, such as the Porta al Prato, which was built in the 9th century. Outside the walls is the spectacular 16^th century church, San  Biagio. This stunning building, with its beautiful architecture, paintings and sculptures, is the most photographed site in Montepulciano. 

Exploring the ancient streets up the hill to the Piazza Grande, you will see magnificent medieval houses, palaces and churches, and in the impressive square the beautiful Palazzo Comunale, designed by the famous architect Michelozzo, as well as an unusual never-completed cathedral. At the very top of the hill is an ancient fortress once used as a Roman temple. 

Take any quaint street leading downhill from the main square and you will see many tempting wine shops.  The elegant Vino Nobile de Montepulciano has put this town on the map and a must visit for serious Tuscan wine aficionados. You can taste the Vino Nobile in any one of many picturesque wine shops with cellars under the city.  My favorite is the Cantina dei Redi. Thought to be of Etruscan origins, the majestic caves were built for a wealthy nobleman beneath his city palace. It is doubtful you will try a glass of this heavenly red wine and not take home a bottle or two.