Amalfi – Paradise Revisited 

by Judy Ebrey, Cuisine International

Amalfi speaks to my soul. Crystal clear azure water lapping against craggy black rocks, creating translucent foam. Magenta bougainvillea and lush verdant ivy cascading down steep walls, Terraces of fragrant lemon groves carved into the hillsides. Faded pastel homes clinging to the mountainsides.  The enticing aroma of pizzas baking in wood burning ovens. These are but a few visions that lure me back seeking renewal in this historically romantic setting.

Since beginning the cooking school at Hotel Luna Convento in Amalfi, Italy eight years ago, my husband Dick and I have returned each May and October, bringing groups to share this wonderful experience with us. Last October we relished three weeks of paradise, the final with our seven children and their spouses for a trip of a lifetime with memories of much laughter, many hugs, tears of joy and albums of pictures that will last forever.

Hotel Luna was originally a 9^th-century convent housing monks (In Italy, convents are for monks and monasteries are for nuns). St. Francis founded the 13^th-century cloister, spending many hours meditating among the fragrant lemon trees, dipping for water from the center well. The Barbaro family still owns the hotel they converted from the monastery many generations ago, and the Luna continues to have the reputation for warm, generous hospitality. Guests enjoy the personal attention of the hotel staff under the watchful eye of Signora Carmella Barbaro.

One warm Sunday, Dick and our school director, Rosemary Anastasio, board a bus to Salerno to go meet our new students. As I stay behind, awaiting their arrival, I sip tea in the cloisters. This is my special personal time to meditate and enjoy the historical and spiritual feelings embodied by the home of St. Francis.

Sheer joy and excitement prevail as the students arrive at the end of their panoramic coastal journey and take the elevator to the desk where they get their first view of the cloisters. Each guest is personally greeted by Hotel Manager Andrea Milone; a tall, distinguished gentleman who has been with the Luna for over 40 years. With each guest weary from the journey, the staff settles everyone into bright, whitewashed rooms filled with antiques on Vietri-tiled floors, and balconies or windows overlooking the spectacular view of the town, sea and coastline. No two rooms are alike – each has its own charm.

After settling in, we meet for champagne cocktails and Rosemary briefs us on the weekly schedule. Students fall in love with Rosemary and her gentle, caring attention. British born, Rosemary was a nanny to a lady-in-waiting at the Royal Court of Queen Elizabeth. When her "little boys" grew up, she moved to Italy to begin a new life. Now married to an Amalfitan and having turned "native," Rosemary is bilingual and knows all the ins and out's of the area.

Later, Chef Enrico Franzese invites us into the dining room, overlooking the twinkling lights of Amalfi, for our first taste of his cuisine, and how wonderful it is! Our first course is smoked mozzarella grilled between lemon leaves from the famous lemon groves on the nearby hillsides. What a way to begin a culinary week! Fertile volcanic soil provides a rich harvest, including classic Mediterranean greens: tomatoes, eggplant and olives. Local fishermen provide fresh seafood daily, and locally produced wine enhances the cuisine. Enrico takes full advantage of all these amenities to showcase his talents. We know we are in for a delicious week.

Breakfast begins the week

Weather permitting, breakfast is served on the dining room balcony. Pastry chef Armando arises early to bake the coronetti for which he is famous. These large decadently sweet dough crescent rolls are filled with pastry cream and cherries, or apricot preserves. Fruit juice, succulent local melons, cheese, proscuitto, toast, eggs "with real flavor" accompany the most fabulous caffé latte; strong Italian coffee and a pitcher of steaming frothy milk. For the totally decadent, waiters bring breakfast to the rooms.

Across the street in the ancient Saracen Tower, once a lookout to sound the alarm when enemy ship were sighted still far out to sea, Enrico and sous chef Andrea are busy preparing for the cooking class. Chef Enrico, a lively, spirited Amalfitan with a twinkle in his eye, returned to his hometown after studying and cooking throughout Europe to specialize in his native southern Italian cuisine. It is now regarded as the healthiest diet in the world. His easy and friendly manner encourages students to participate and enjoy as they learn to share his expertise, enthusiasm and love for the cuisine of the Amalfi region. "If we could only bring him home with us!" is the response of all who have fallen under the spell of this talented and vivacious teacher. 

Promptly at 9:30, the first cooking class begins with Rosemary handing out folders containing recipes for the day. Taking seats in front of the large marble demonstration table, with a large mirror overhead so that all can see what’s going on, class is ready to begin. Enrico, with Andrea, his third hand, begins demonstrating as Rosemary interprets, mixing her British wit with Enrico's lively conversation and gestures, making the perfect team. 

Beginning with the first recipe of the day and throughout the week, Enrico encourages each student to participate. There is plenty of gnocchi forming on grooved wooden paddles, crepe making, cannelloni filling, anchovy cleaning, pasta machine cranking for fresh pasta, rice ball stuffing and rolling, pizza frying, lasagna layering, ravioli stamping, roasted pepper peeling and lots of chopping, mixing, stirring and tasting. Applause breaks out and cameras flash as each student completes a task, with Enrico flashing a huge smile and a thumb's up.

Italians in general, and Neapolitans in particular, love their food, especially regional dishes that have been prepared for generations. Enrico personifies this in his teaching by telling stories and relating the traditions of the regional dishes he is preparing while giving tips such as, "Always cook with love" and "Never economize in the kitchen." Cooking by taste and feel, and always using the best ingredients, taking poetic license and substituting with "fantasy," Enrico shows how to prepare a dish without strictly following a recipe. Preparing meals in this manner takes out the fear and anxiety for even the most novice cook.

Mid-morning, in honor of Rosemary's British heritage, coffee and tea are served on the main floor of the tower, quite often with goodies from Armando or Rosemary. Gazing out onto the brilliant blue bay from high above the town, Enrico delights in pointing out places of interest such as the villa where Kirk Douglas serenaded his wife. Then it is back down to the kitchen for the final preparations for lunch. Eagerly, students watch Enrico and Andrea place such culinary delights as Ravioli con Broccoli di Rape, Gnocchi alla Sorrentina, Peperoni Imbottiti and the famous local Maccheroni al Limone on the marble top, anticipating the taste treat that is to come. In true Italian family style, portions are ample. Local wine, a gift from the cellar of Rosemary and her husband, Pepino perfectly compliment the food. Forget diets and any form of self-discipline. This is no time for limits.

A stroll around Amalfi

With tummies full and hearts content, thoughts turn to nap time to gear up for a walking tour of Amalfi. With Rosemary as guide, we stroll the main street and explore the back streets used by the locals to give a true Amalfi experience. Along the way we visit St. Andrea Cathedral, an ancient mill that produces hand-made paper, a hand-made leather shop, ceramic shops, and several limoncello shops to sample locally made limoncello, a popular after-dinner lemon liqueur. Which is best, the plain or cream variety? This is a big decision, of course requiring several tastes. Olives, salted capers, anchovies, lemon candies and an enormous variety of dried pastas are among the bounty found in the local food shops just waiting to be tucked in suitcases for our culinary achievements when we get home. Then it is back to the hotel for another of Enrico's fabulous dinners.  

Early Tuesday morning, we head to Pompeii for a tour with Pasquale, our guide. Strolling through the ancient city that was buried by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D., we see a city of shops, markets, townhouses, paved streets, a stadium, theaters, temples and baths. It is an intimate glimpse into 1^st-century Roman life with its colorful and often highly refined frescoes. One morning barely scratches the surface of this historic wonder. Our appetites are ravenous from the walk. A simple, but not light, meal at the Hotel Excelsior Vittorio of pasta with tomato sauce, Caprese and ice cream helps save the day, providing energy for the trip over the mountains to Ravello, the most elegant of the small cities along the Amalfi coast.  

We tour the lush floral gardens of the 13^th-century Villa Rufolo, with its ivy covered tower that was the inspiration for Klingsor's Tower in Parcifal and splendid vista over the sea. Then on to Villa Cimbrone, with its towers and loggias enveloped in a splendid natural setting. Both places are perfect settings for group photo shots. The ceramic shops overflowing with hand painted ceramics from Vietri nearly have to close after we max out our credit cards! What better way to show off the dishes we learn in class than serving on beautiful ceramic ware. Thank goodness for UPS!  Enrico promises to make this evening's dinner light, but in his enthusiasm for us to experience as much as possible, we still eat all courses, plus a bonus dessert, the sfolliatelle made famous by local nuns. 

Wednesday's cooking class includes Pizza Fritte, "to die for" fried pizzas from Naples, Crespelle del Convento, filled crepes that originated at the Luna Convento, Bracciola alla Napoletana, tiramisu and lemon sorbet.  The remainder of the day is free time for shopping, resting or swimming in the hotel pool or down at the beach. Many take the boat to Positano for a different view of  the Amalfi Coast and shopping. Some skip dinner, opting for wine, bread and cheese eaten on their balconies. Others have pizza in one of the waterfront restaurants and enjoy watching the world go by. I go to the Luna dining room and have my favorite Caprese and Spaghetti ala Vongole (see recipe, left), giving Dick reason once again to call me the Princess! 

Thursday, another tough day in the cooking class: Enrico prepares some of his favorites, including Cannelloni al'Amalfitani, Risotto con Porcini and Saltimbocca alla Romanas.  After class we drive along the amazing Amalfi Coast to Sorrento, the inspiration for the well known song, "Come Back To Sorrento. Sorrento is the locale to purchase treasures of leather shoes and bags, gold and coral jewelry, linens, wooden inlaid boxes and other local items. The Bougainvillea Ice Cream Shop with its 365 varieties is a popular resting place.

We visit a three-star restaurant 

High above Sorrento in San Agata is the Relais & Chateau Three Michelin Star Don Alfonso 1890 Ristorante owned by Alfonso and Livia Iccarino. It is our final destination for the day and the place where we’ll eat a six-course Neapolitan feast in a luxurious dining room and enjoy a private tour of the restaurant’s historic wine cellar, filled with an extensive collection of superb vintages of wines around the world.  The cellar was originally an ancient escape tunnel leading down to the Sorrento coast. Livia brings tastings of the restaurant’s homemade olive oil, limoncello and flavored rolls. Chef Alfonso creates extraordinary food based on traditional regional dishes. Nearly all the fruits, vegetables and herbs used in the kitchen are organically grown at La Peracciole, the Iccarinos’ farm a few miles away on the steep hillsides just four miles from the coast of Capri. It is not unusual to see Alfonso arriving at the restaurant in the late afternoon in muddy boots and jeans, laden with baskets of produce he will use in the evening's dinner.

The end of the week comes much too soon. Enrico spends the final cooking class teaching us to make Lasagna al Pesto, typical marinated anchovies, Linguine alla Bella Donna and my favorite, Spaghetti alle Vongole, as well as Profiteroles al Limone, showcasing another use of the abundant local lemons.  After class we linger, savoring Rosemary's wine, and realizing this is the last day to indulge in Enrico's fantastic cuisine. Some students spend this final afternoon in last-minute gift shopping for family, friends and themselves for reminders of this glorious spot, while others spend their last few hours here swimming under the bright Neapolitan sunshine.

As the sun slowly drifts behind the mountain, illuminating the sky with a brilliant pink glow, the alluring melodies of mandolin and guitar entice us into the bar. Neapolitan music, like Neapolitan cuisine, has soul of its own. The musicians have already serenaded the kitchen staff to make happy and content while they prepare our farewell dinner. Enrico, festooned with award ribbons and medals, joins in the singing along with many of the staff. Other hotel guests are happily astonished as we are musically escorted into the dining room. Enrico goes all out for the final dinner.

We start with carpaccio from the Cipriani Hotel in Venice where Enrico once worked and end with a glorious cake, covered with a gossamer spun sugar topping made by Armando. The soulful music, cool breezes softly blowing, the moon romantically glowing, brilliant stars shining above and the twinkling lights of Amalfi weave their magic and lure us on to the balcony to dance. All through dinner, toasts and tears accompany the joyous festivities along with a multitude of pictures. Signora Carmella Barbaro presents champagne for a final toast and a welcome to return at any time.

Sadly the week has rushed by and Rosemary boards us on the bus Saturday morning for our final journey along the picturesque Amalfi Coast.  It is said when Amalfitans die and go to heaven, they don’t know if they are there because they’v lived in heaven all of their lives. We now know the true meaning of this tale. Amalfi has once again woven its magic as we all vow to return. I only regret that I have to wait until May.