For
the media to present a story, it must be r-e-a-l-l-y
entertaining. Often the truth is embellished or the sensational is
emphasized. But with Papua New Guinea’s Cultural Festivals there’s no
need to exaggerate – these cultural pow wows are what The Chicago
Tribune rightfully calls “one of the 12 travel wonders of the world.”
Those who venture to this dance competition and gathering of the tribes
say it’s one of the most memorable travel experiences available.
One recent traveler said he was going to have to begin a 12 step
Photographers Anonymous group, he couldn’t stop taking pictures. Not
only can you photograph the most exotic, colorful tribes people
imaginable, the tribes people beckon you to take their picture for
free. Friendly villagers are so proud to display their finery and culture.
They recognize you have traveled all this distance to see them as rare
human birds in their beautiful habitat. During the festival, the best
pictures are as you watch face paint, feathers, shells, seed pods and
other traditional decorations applied as body adornment.
The Cultural
Festivals in May, June, August and September each differ. Though I have
visited all the Shows in the locations over the decades, the newer, but
more traditional Tumbuna Show is my favorite. It’s smaller, with easier
to access photo opportunities, there are no fences separating visitors
from participants, and there are no interminable political speeches
inflicted on everyone in the midday sun. There’s convenient access to
the groups; they are in a close-by oval area with shade. Best of
all, there are only about forty or so travelers from the “outside
world.”
Does Size Matter – Does it Make it a Better Fit? The Goroka Show in
September is usually the biggest. However, for crowd control the
tourists and visitors are kept from the parading tribes people by a barb
wire fence. Entrance for those cherished close-ups might be limited
to an hour or two, after the energy and film have been spent. Hotel space in town is scarce during this show – and a
written confirmation can mean nothing. I
saw front desk personnel look at the hotel confirmation as a meaningless
piece of paper. No matter how many letters, e-mails, and phone calls one
has made, sometimes one is shifted to a less desirable hotel, far, far
from town, with possible delays in getting to the Show. Or one takes
charter flights for day visits to the festival, not the most desirable
option for this renowned event. Also, the Goroka Show has on rare occasion
been changed in date or canceled on short notice.
The mid-August Mt. Hagen Show is popular and dependable for the wow
factor. Flights, however, especially on the day after the Show can be
delayed, creating havoc on one’s itinerary. There are only are
only about 180 overseas visitors privileged to attend this two day
celebration. This show is combined with a county fair type gathering. My
frustrating experience related to the Mt. Hagen Show involves
airline delays and complications. Since there are overseas
clients gathered for this event, they all depart for
international or domestic flights the day the show is over – so expect
delayed flights or overbooking complications. It isn’t fun, spending all
this time and money to be sitting at an airport for four to seven hours or
having to stay an extra overnight because airline priorities are other
than what one the overseas visitor might need.
In my 27 years of experience I have seen competing travel companies
promise much, and deliver a mixed experience. Some print exciting
colorful photos of Papua New Guineans as a brochure cover piece, but
don’t travel anywhere near the area where these tribes can be seen. There
are many fine honed details which can make a substantive difference to the
Highlands Show trip. Verify if the trip is guaranteed to operate,
if there is a trip escort and how long the escort has experience
with PNG. Choose a trip with an experienced trip escort who
can substantively enhance your understanding of the intricacies of this
country which has 750 different languages. Does the Sepik River component
to the trip have 15 or 45 travelers. Is there a day spent in transit on the open sea?
If
visiting Papua New Guinea, make certain to include three days in the most
colorful part of the country - the Huli Wigmen area and stay at Ambua
Lodge with access to exciting jungle hikes, bird watching, and probably
the most authentic, accessible traditional tribes people in the country.
Most PNG travelers are experienced , but for this country it’s more
important to be well prepared.
Most of the festivals are in the Highlands, with a 5,000 to 7,000 ft.
elevation, so the air is temperate and conducive to touring.
Accommodations are comparable to the great wilderness hotels in Africa.
The Cultural Shows substantively add to the cost and the quality of a
Papua New Guinea trip. In a world of cultural travels, however, to
attend one of these exciting, colorful festivals is to be immersed in
sensory overload.
The
destination is not value laden, but these tribal “Sing Sings” as the
celebrations are called, are surely a worthwhile peak travel adventure.
Now when travel has become a big business with hype and sizzle so
common, the Highland Shows deliver an authentic travel experience.
You will dine out on your stories and photos of the Mudmen, of the famous
fierce Huli Wigmen and other tribes people competing in this dance
competition. It’s a photographers paradise and armchair anthropologists
thrill to the cultural immersion. It’s like being in a “National
Geographic cultural documentary” but having nice accommodations and good
food at the end of the day.
Despite the adverse publicity about rascals, headhunters, cannibals,
crime, and malaria, if one chooses an itinerary with a reputable tour
operator, one will enjoy a dependable adventure in this ‘land of
the unexpected.” Realize travelers and the media frequently embellish
the adventures, the hardships, the arduous treks, and the sensational. The
stories depict more daring and dangerous adventures than what actually
occurred. Since so few people travel to PNG (approximately three to five
thousand a year) these stories are seldom refuted. Traveling with a
reputable PNG tour operator substantially reduces the risk of a spoiled
trip. Note to intrepid travelers: This is a country one does not visit on
one’s own.
Also, prepare yourself for post trip letdown; one can scarcely find a
comparable exotic travel experience. When friends gather for a list of the
top travel experiences, you too will will rightfully join the Chicago
Tribune in calling the Highlands Show one of the twelve travel wonders of
the world. Be ready to edit a huge kaleidoscope of many dazzling photos
and travel memories.
