What better way to enjoy the Swedish summer than through a journey of the senses?

Pedaling on a country road surrounded by fragrant wildflowers, watching the sunset from a ridge overlooking the shimmering Baltic Sea, stopping for deliciously smoked fish in a little harbor on the island of Gotland or having a picnic in a castle garden – all these are moments that become natural ingredients when you see the world at a slower pace.

I invite you to join me in the summer of 2001 for an adventure in history, culture and spectacular beauty. On this particular tour we combine bike and boat as a way to reach the majestic castles around Lake Mälaren and the pristine beauty of the archipelago in the Baltic.

Imagine that you have just landed in the city of Stockholm. It sprawls gracefully over 14 islands, right between the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren. You’ll be introduced to “the Venice of the North” by a walk through the oldest part of the city, Gamla Stan. It is on this island where Stockholm began sometime before the 13th century. You’ll stroll on narrow lanes that were laid out in the Middle Ages. Today the streets bustle with life from cafes and restaurants. In the center is Stortorget, the old town square, where the famous “Stockholm Bloodbath” took place. Staged by the Danish king Christian, in 1520, it was an effort to intimidate the Swedish nobility and regain control of the country. It is said that on a rainy November day you can still see blood flow in the gutters.

But let’s take a break from history and enjoy this summer evening. The lingering light in the sky, the very special illumination of northern latitudes is one of the reasons I return to my old country every summer. The exquisite light lends a sense of timelessness and extended possibilities that I find truly magical.

On our second day we board a steamer. Settling in on the deck among the other sun-worshipping Swedes, we enjoy the sights of sweeping bays, narrow straits and rocky shores. Lake Mälaren, to the west of Stockholm, is Sweden’s third largest lake. The countryside abounds with historical sites, castles, palaces and Viking remains.

A Fairy Tale Town

At lunchtime our steamer pulls up at the town dock of Sigtuna, an idyllic town from another era that is like a storybook place. In fact, one of Scandinavia’s most beloved children’s books authors and illustrators, Elsa Beskow, used this town as a backdrop for her stories. However, this sleepy, little town with crooked lanes and quaint wooden houses was once an important commercial center. During the Viking period merchant ships from as far away as Asia dropped anchor here. Monasteries and abbeys competed with one another in building the most glorious churches in town. Today the ruins provide a cultural focus, as do summer evening concerts at the gazebo on the green.

We mount our bicycles and leave the town of Sigtuna behind. The road winds through one of Sweden’s oldest cultural farming lands in a lush landscape of rolling hills and fields. As we approach the baroque palace of Skokloster, a pair of monks clad in medieval garb greets us. This is the week of the Skokloster festival and a medieval village has grown up around the castle, complete with knights, craftsmen and minstrels. The palace of Skokloster is unique in more than one way. The huge banquet hall was left exactly as it was when the workers quit the construction site in 1676 at the news of the
castle owner's death.

To continue on our historical journey, we make a brief visit to a remarkable church. Thanks to an impoverished parish, the vault in the church of Härkeberga was never whitewashed, a common practice during the Reformation. Today we marvel at the unique and intricate medieval paintings preserved by that lack of money. They give us a glimpse into life and mythology of the 15th century.

As the sun moves closer to the horizon, we enter the town of Strängnäs. A magnificent Gothic cathedral overlooks the town. We bike along the shores of Lake Mälaren to our accommodations for the night, the beautiful Ulvshälls Manor House. In the dusk-filled evening we might hear the story of the “ghost lady” of this grand house from the 1600s. We are certain you will enjoy the culinary delights for which this inn is well known.

Our bicycle route takes us on wonderful backroads and wooded paths. The province of Södermanland is often nicknamed “the smiling province,” and rightly so. Flower-filled meadows, rolling hills and hundreds of lakes characterize this part of Sweden. Eventually we reach the town of Mariefred. Historians call its fortress castle “the red fairytale castle.” The impressive looking structure boasts not only many stories and mysteries, but also a royal portrait collection and a marvelous theater from the 1700s.

To complete our castle part of the tour, we steer towards Taxinge castle. The historical aspect of this castle fades in comparison to the piles of desserts that you find at the castle café. This is where we’ll wait for the van for further transportation to Stockholm.

A City Dressed in Islands

It’s a rare city that has thousands of islands on its doorstep. This is Stockholm’s good fortune and yours to enjoy. On our last two days of the Bike and Boat Tour, we’ll introduce you to one of the largest and most dramatic archipelagos in the world. It has no fewer than 24,000 islands and vast stretches of untouched nature and wildlife. Travel through these islands just once and you can't but wonder why so few people outside of Sweden know about it. On the other hand, it’s probably because it has been kept a “secret” that the archipelago has stayed so pristine, peaceful and absolutely breathtaking.

On the outer edge of the archipelago is the tiny town of Sandhamn, a Mecca for sailors and the home of the Royal Swedish Yacht Club. From this island our local host will navigate through straits and narrows. We’ll land on a small island for a view of the setting sun and a barbecue. I know you will store away this evening in your memory for a cold and dark winter day.

Our boat journey continues the following day. We crisscross between the patchwork of islands and eventually reach the island of Möja. This island has resisted tourist development and its residents continue to lead the traditional life of farming and fishing. Mopeds seem to be the favorite mode of transportation. Children as well as grandparents zoom by on their small motorbikes. In the lingering evening light we walk over to the  “world-famous Wikström Café.” The restaurant in the middle of the woods has a reputation for serving the best and freshest fish in the whole archipelago. Naturally we can’t leave the island of Möja without tasting their delicacies.

We say goodbye to the archipelago and head back to Stockholm in a local taxi boat. I think you will agree with me that the joys of a Swedish summer will stay with you just like the beauty of the magical northern light, long into the night.

Backroad Travel in Sweden offers bicycle and walking tours in Sweden and Denmark. Its founder, Cecilia Franzel, is a native of Sweden. She lives in Massachusetts but maintains a close contact with her former country.