By Shirley Moskow

Caravans of big tour buses seem out of place as they thread their way through the tree-lined streets framed with narrow 17th and 18^th-century step-roofed buildings in Delft, Holland. Laced with canals and cobblestone lanes, the village seems much more suited to the horse-drawn carriages that take tourists sightseeing. In fact, Delft looks much the way it did when Vermeer painted here in the 17th century.

Travelers who visit Delft enjoy the Thursday market, the quaint restaurants, and, of course, the traditional Dutch architecture. They rarely leave, however, without a stop at the Konninklije Porceleyne Fles factory, founded in1653 and known the world over for its blue-and-white pottery. It is the only surviving 17th century factory in this town that was once home to hundreds of potteries.

At the factory, travelers view a short video presentation about the town, pottery production and the history of Konninklije Porcelyene Fles. Then they may take a self-guided tour of the factory, following the process as pottery is made, from liquid clay to the molding of pots, dishes, sculpture and tiles, to the painting, glazing and firing. A guide conducts group tours in the morning and afternoon. Visitors also may visit the factory’s museum and showroom.

On a factory tour, you may be surprised to discover that not all Delftware is decorated with the famous blue-and-white pattern inspired by Chinese porcelain. “Pynacker” Delftware is mainly red, blue and gold. Its pattern resembles the Japanese Imari porcelain that Dutch East India Company ships brought to Amsterdam in the 17th century. And “polychrome” Delftware patterns are principally blue, yellow, green and red, the colors of Majolkaware in the 17th century.

Delftware is commonly identified with The Netherlands, however, neither the pottery patterns, nor the original potters were native to Holland.In the 16 century, Italian potters emigrated to Belgium to escape religious persecution and later moved north to Rotterdam and Haarlem. By the mid-17th century, the town of Delft was firmly established as a pottery center.

Konninklije Porcelyene Fles, the name of the oldest firm, translates as “the porcelain bottle.” It refers to the Royal Delft trademark, an apothecary jar, imprinted on the bottom of each authentic piece. Objects with the trademark are sold with a certificate of declaration by The Chamber of Commerce of Delft confirming that the pottery is entirely painted by hand, according to the centuries-old custom. The certificate distinguishes Royal Delftware from other Delftware.

Painters who work on Royal Delftware train for at least a year before they are permitted to decorate an object by themselves. The traditional designs are old Dutch or Italian scenes. The artists use brushes made with the hair of martens and squirrels, and black paint containing cobalt oxide. The cobalt oxide turns blue during firing. By adding more or less water, the artists determine the final color and shade of blue.

Travelers also have an opportunity to create their own Delftware tiles in a two-hour painting workshop under the supervision of professional Delft painters. After their tiles are painted, the factory glazes and fires each tile for 24 hours. Participants may pick up their tiles after 48 hours and have them sent to their next destination, or they may have them wrapped and shipped home.

Artistically-challenged travelers may wish to choose from a fine selection of souvenirs in the factory store.

© 2000 Shirley Moskow