Segesta, Sicily’s landmark
 
by Giada Platania, Travel Sicilia TR17 
 
The most majestically sited Greek temple and theatre in Italy is one of the world's most perfectly preserved survivors from the days of antiquity. The Segesta temple and theatre—impressively overlooking the Sicilian landscape and complete with mythical power, lies only one hour from Palermo. 
 
A mysterious population with legendary origins chose Segesta as home. Nobody knows precisely who they were, or even what to call them - Elami, Elimi, or Elymians, but tradition says they were refugees from Troy related to the hero Aeneas. Some scholars think they were indigenous people who gradually were absorbed by Greek colonists. Whatever their origins, by the time they were Hellenized, around 500 BC, the city of Segesta was one of the most important cities in Magna Grecia. As Sicelots (Greek Sicilians) with a native heritage, forging occasional alliances with Athens against Carthage, and vice versa, the Segestans were a formidable force to reckon with. As fate would have it, Segesta has the best-preserved Greek temple in the world.

The temple has been standing silently for the past 2,400 years. Located on a private plateau overlooking a deep ravine carved by the Pispisa River, the temple dominates the 997 ft. hilltop and is surrounded by picturesque fields of wild flowers and agaves. In spring you can easily imagine Segestan children gathering poppies, snapdragons and daisies on the graceful slopes. By mid-June, the field grasses and flowering shrubs are already amber and brown, not from lack of rain but from a timeless habit. The greyish limestone of this unique building mirrors, in a subtle way, the colour of its surroundings - from green to golden highlights.

The site is made all the more majestic by the deep valley that envelops it. In the fading gold and pink sunlight of a Sicilian afternoon, you can stand here and absorb the full view. The setting framed by the distant peaks of Mt. Barbaro and Mt. Bernardo, is one of the most magnificent views in all Sicily.

Built around 430 BC the temple was constructed in the purest Doric style. 61 meters long, 26 meters wide, and built on 4 steps. The fact that the shafts are unfluted and there is no cella, the theory is that the temple was probably left unfinished when the Elymian residents waged war with the Carthaginians.
 
Another theory claims that the lack of a cella (which usually comprised the first part of the sanctuary to be undertaken) might indicate that the building was intended to consist merely of a peristyle, making it a pseudo-temple. Furthermore the mystery about the purpose of this building is intensified by the lack of any indication as to which deity it might have been dedicated.

We can only imagine the ancient priests celebrating their mysterious rites for this unknown deity under the blinding light of the Sicilian sun. Flames from stone braziers, a loud voice breaking the silence, the ritual sacrifice — all elements of a long dead culture.

Allowing the viewer to better absorb the seemingly contradictory elements of weighty permanence and the lift of its extraordinary proportional harmony, there is no roof or interior enclosure and the columns and friezes remain unadorned.

The 36 columns of the peristyle — 6 on the short side and 14 on the long side — are almost completely intact and support the entablatures and pediments. The smooth finish and the natural corrosive effects of time on the limestone have only increased the charms of this building. No piles of rubble from a collapsed structure necessitating a rebuilding in one’s imagination. It is simply perfect.

Another plus is that the crowds are comparatively light, and movement throughout is completely unimpeded. In many periods of the year you can find yourself alone with the ruins and the sounds of your thoughts and you get the chance to take some great photos refreshingly void of other travellers.