— Corfuy Kanoni.  A famous view showing some of the south of the island. — Corfu Liston - built by the French - a copy of the reu de Rivoli in Paris. — A concert in a villa.

“We were so surprised to hear world-class concerts in Corfu in wonderful private villas – the perfect place for chamber music. This was the highlight of our holiday!”  How often we hear such comments, but it’s surprising since Corfu has a long, interesting musical history. 

During the latter part of the Venetian occupation of Corfu (1386–1797) an opera house was built and visiting companies from Italy were regular attractions there. The music faculty of the Corfu Ionian University gives high-quality concerts by staff and students during the year, and the island boasts a philharmonic orchestra, several choirs and more than 30 wind and brass bands, some dating back to the 19^th century. 

At a chamber music festival I was involved in organizing in Tuscany in 1991, the Mayor of Corfu arrived unannounced. He had been interested to see how this worked, and how we might arrange something similar on his island. He wanted to promote such cultural events and we had previously met in Corfu to discuss this possibility. He really liked what he saw and so “Divertimenti” in Corfu was born.

Early Days

Among the regular musicians in the early days of Divertimenti in Corfu were the Lindsay String Quartets, one of the most highly acclaimed musical ensembles worldwide. Apart from being superb musicians, the Lindsays were very open, friendly people and we had many amusing experiences with them. One of the most memorable was their concert at the top of the 15^th century Old Venetian Fortress, which had superb views but logistically was very difficult to set up in.

We had to drive through tunnels to get there. We’d just seen the James Bond film For your Eyes Only, which was set in Corfu and featured a breathtaking car chase through these very tunnels, so imaginations were running riot. There was a full moon the night of the concert, and the setting was absolutely stunning. During the second half a sudden breeze began blowing. First violinist Peter Cropper had to hold his music to the stand with his foot – quite an acrobatic feat.

The quartet put on a concert the next year at the New (late 16^th-century) Venetian Fortress, at the same time frantic preparations for an upcoming European Summit were taking place. During the concert, somebody began testing the electric supply. The lights went off, then on, then off, then on. Each time they dimmed, the quartet pitched forward in unison to squint over their sheet music. When the lights came back on, they’d pitched back as one, finding themselves suddenly too close to the notation. They did this several times, calmly and totally unflappable, looking almost balletic. Nothing seemed to faze these superb musicians. 

At another concert, this one in the National Gallery in a village about 10 miles north of Corfu town, we found the chairs for the quartet were impossible to use, so Peter’s son and I went off to hunt for suitable ones. We had no luck in the first two tavernas we checked out, but found a perfect set in the third. The taverna owner had no hesitation lending them to us although he had never seen us before. It was a typically friendly, trusting Corfiot gesture. 

Villa Concerts.

After several years the mayor’s sponsorship ended. A friend, Lady Marjorie Holmes, suggested we have a concert in her villa. Her garden, already famous throughout Greece, was now to become a superb concert venue. She had lunched on board a large Royal Navy warship (a destroyer, I think) the day before and had found volunteers keen to help setting up.  

We soon discovered we had none other than the captain, chief engineer and other senior officers carting wine crates and glasses, and moving chairs during the afternoon set-up, then also acting as barmen for the pre-concert and interval drinks. Guests loved these charming seamen. They also loved it when, in the middle of the concert, Marjorie’s dog wandered across the area where the quartet were playing, his long tail wagging happily and just missing each music stand.

Now the villa concerts are well established – unique evenings with superb music, delectable food and wines, and an exclusive social atmosphere ideal for listening to chamber music.  They also give an insight into Corfu life which few tourists ever see. 

Every year world renowned musicians join with the famous Kocian Quartet, who are the resident musicians. This year they are joined by the outstanding Herold Quartet, a new generation of great Czech ensembles that already are charting impressive international careers. The noted Czech cellist Michal Kanka and the Greek clarinetist Odysseas Karydis will join the quartets for quintets, and Kanka will also play two concerti. 

These outstanding musicians not only delight audiences with their wonderful concerts but also are superb coaches for the amateur musicians who play every morning. In this International Year of Czech Music, programs will include several quartets by Dvorak and Smetana, as well as Vivaldi, Haydn, Boccherini, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Brahms.

The Corfu Chandris Hotel is our home during the Festival – not only are they generous sponsors, but they also have a delightful open air theater in the extensive beachside gardens where we hold two concerts – the string quartet often has birds singing along as the sun sets.    The musicians and their families join the participants of Chamber Music Holidays for dinners,  wonderful parties, sightseeing and an enchanting boat trip. 

My apartment has a large living area and balcony – great for parties. One evening we decided the large fireplace was beggng to be used.  About 10 minutes after we lit the fire, there was a loud banging on the door. As I opened it two firemen rushed in then stopped and looked surprised.  “Mrs. Vivienne, your alarm showed a big fire and we were sent to save you!” Ever since I have phoned the reception to tell them when we are lighting a fire.   

Traveling to Corfu

Although there are many flights to Corfu, for those of us who travel by car our regular route is to sail from Venice. We go to the top deck to enjoy the wonderful view of Venice as we slowly sail out to sea, passing the Grand Canal, St Mark’s Square, the Doge’s Palace and the Vivaldi Church. Arriving in Corfu is always impressive – the old Venetian buildings and the two imposing fortresses give a déjà vu feeling.

For history buffs, the Old Town of Corfu is a jewel, with its maze of narrow streets, elegant Venetian mansions, charming squares, historic Greek Orthodox churches and the magnificent Palace of St. Michael and St. George with its superb collection of Asiatic art. Corfu town and surroundings reflect the history of this fascinating island,which stretches back to the 6^th century B.C. and beyond. 

The Archaeological Museum and Palaeopolis Mon Repos Estate, with excellent exhibitions and several fascinating sites, give a good idea of pre-Roman era of the island’s history. The later Venetian, French (1797–1799 and 1807–1814) and British (1814–1864) eras also left unique legacies. It’s an interesting experience to sit in a café on the Liston, which is a copy of the Rue de Rivoli in Paris built by Napoleon, looking towards the Venetian Fortress and the British-built Palace of St Michael and St George while you’re watching a game of cricket!

Our afternoon excursions take us to the Achilleon Palace, built by the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, and to the south of the island with centuries-old olive trees, fishing villages, long sandy beaches and delightful fish restaurants. In the north is Mt Pantocrator. More than 3,000 feet high, with a cooler landscape and stunning views. The coastline has charming little bays and rocky outcrops indented with caves. Here the fantastic turquoise sea is so clear you can see each pebble many feet below. On several occasions we’ve been joined by dolphins in this magical area.

Chamber Music and this fantastic island fit well together. Looking back on 12 happy years of this festival, I think of the Gerald Durrell book, My Family and Other Animals. Perhaps the title of this article should have been, My Family and Other Musicians!