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Volume 9, May 2007

ISSN 1538-893X

An Irish Education

By Teresa Bourke, Fiddler's Retreat

As we all know learning can take many forms; formal and informal, knowledge gained through an academic route or through experiences gained over time, and as they say… there are different horses for different courses.

For me, every day presents a chance to learn something new, it could simply be a finding a new recipes, learning a new Irish tune, being presented with challenges to the way I think and do things, stepping out of the comfort zone and being in a place that allows me to take on board new things, going off the usual road and down a country laneway and wondering who and what I will meet along the way.

I have travelled the world for years, have seen and learned many amazing things in even more amazing places. It wasn’t until I rooted myself back in the Irish village that has been home to my family for centuries that I truly realised that home is where the heart is and that I am steeped in luck to have so many learning opportunities on my doorstep.

I want to share some of them with you. I am inviting you to come with me on a journey, one of learning and discovery that will take us off the beated path in some instances! We will have many varied and unique opportunities to learn as we proceed through the region I live in.

Welcome to Tipperary … Let us begin …

The Devils Bit mountain in North Tipperary, in the mid-lands region of Ireland, is the source of the River Suir. It flows, winds and ripples east until it meets the sea at Waterford Harbour.

Along the banks of the river are some of Tipperary’s many bustling towns and picturesque villages, Templemore, Loughmore village, Thurles, Holycross village, Cahir to name but a few. Following the route of this river from its source as
it goes on its merry way presents many opportunities to learn …

Tipperary is an area steeped in history and immense natural beauty. As we have come to expect from Ireland, it has castles and cottages, green fields everywhere we look, hills, mountains and valleys, traditional pubs and restaurants, and most importantly its people who are warm, interesting and full of character.

We will journey down the River Suir … right from its source and seek out the places with special offerings that are available to us. Exciting times abound as we encounter the local people and places that are awaiting our arrival …

Our starting place is The Devil’s Bit mountain which has an interesting tale to tell. Apparently, one day, the devil got angry and took a big bite out of the mountain, he tore off in a strop and dropped his mouthful of the mountain in Cashel of the Kings, where the majestic ruins of the famous Rock of Cashel now stand on a hill top overlooking the town.

As we stand on the top of The Devil’s Bit mountain, after a leisurely half hour ascent, the whole farmland we see before us is a magic blanket of green fields with hedgegrows forming divisions between parcles of land. We see some of the other hills in Tipperary that bounds the county.

There is a large Holy Cross politioned at the top of the mountain and some time-out is taken for private moments of rememberance, prayer and thoughts. By night the cross is like a beacon, shigning brightly without fail. At the base of the mountain, a short distance away is the town of Templemore, the big temple.

The River Suir is now on its way and our first port of call is Templemore. The headquarters for the training of the Irish police force, An Garda Siochana - guardians of the peace, is based here.

Templemore has a wonderful local amenity in its town park and lake. It is a tranquil place to stroll down the wood lined paths, the local pitch and putt club is located in the park too.

A short drive outside the town we head to Fiacri House Restaurant and Cookery school. It is set in the unspoiled rural countryside on its own farm. A well signposted place, thankfully. Tipperary is home to many artisan food producers and speciality farmers markets. The policy of food being certified from farm to plate is strictly adhered to at Fiacri House. Whether it's traditional or ‘new’ Irish cookery you are interested in, Fiacri is certainly a place to seek out, tickle your taste buds and learn hands-on from an expert.

By the time the River Suir makes its way through Loughmore village it has gained a little momentum. This village is in itself as picturesque as they come, with an ancient castle whose construction began in 1328, an old mill and abbey all snugly nestled into the village landscape.

Loughmore is renowned as a parish of farmers, sports people, musicians and is also the final resting place of the famous Cormack brothers, hanged in the wrong for the murder of the local landlord, Ellis, in Nenagh Jail in 1858.

Based in the heart of village is Fiddlers Retreat, the Irish Music and Culture Centre where we can stop off and learn about many aspects if Irelands cultural traditions.

Next stop is Thurles. The centrepiece of the town is the new, exciting and aptly named Source Arts Centre. An imposing, contemporary building set on the banks of the River Suir, the building has many different creative spaces for learning, leisure, pleasure and relaxation with a library, art gallery, theatre, community rooms and the essential café. Thurles town is also home to the G.A.A. (Irelands national sports association) museum, Lar na Pairce.

Learn about the history of Irelands national Gaelic games, hurling, football, camogie and handball. The Famine Museum in St. Mary’s Church is a fascinating reminder of this harrowing period in Irish history.

Further down the river is Holycross Village, home to the restored Cictercian Abbey and cluster of thatched cottages. It is a place where we can cast a line and learn how to fish on the river with a local guide and, hopefully, catch some brown trout and salmon.

A short drive from the village is Farney Castle, Knitwear and Porcelain Gallery. Knitting has been a traditional Irish handcraft for generations and was presented to the international world of fashion by Cyril Cullen.

It is at Farney where we will learn and see, first hand, the intricacies and process involved from rearing the sheep to the final stages of seeing the finished garments. Handmade porcelain is also produced here. The Cullen will also share the history and stories about their family home during tours of the castle.

In the town of Cahir the river can be seen surging forwards as it passes over the weir on approach to the 12th century Cahir Castle which is on a rocky island in the River Suir. Historic battles and stories are revealed during the guided tours of  one of Irelands largets and best preserved castles. The South-East Regional Craft Centre is housed in the renovated town granary in the town centre.

As we come to the end of our journey of learning and exploration we walk down the winding path beside the River Suir until we come upon The Swiss Cottage.

A beautiful, ornate cottage, that was the playground of the castle gentry who liked to role-play as peasants by day and return to the castle by night.

If, after all that rural ramblings, you need to put your feet up, you can avail of a lift from a horse and enjoy a little equine activity at the Cahir Equestrian Centre. They have everything you need and when all’s said and done you can rest your head at the centre’s residential accommodation, drift off to dreamland remembering your eventful and interesting times that a ramble along the River Suir presented to you.

Isn’t  that the essence of learning at the source …

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