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Two days after
returning from a trip to the island nation of Malta, I rushed out and
rented a 1941 black-and-white classic from my neighborhood video store.
I couldn't wait to feed the cassette into the VCR. As the vintage movie
unfolded, Sam Spade (played by Humphrey Bogart) encountered a beautiful
and cunning femme fatale and a motley crew of bad guys who all lusted
for the same legendary figurine, a gem-encrusted golden bird of prey
known as "The Maltese Falcon." According to the old film someone stole
the priceless objet d'art from a treasure galleon off the coast of
Spain in 1539. For 400 years the idol-like creature left a messy trail
of death and destruction in its wake as one greedy thief after another
wrestled the plunder into his possession, then lost it.
Dashiell Hammett, the author of the detective novel upon which the
famous motion picture was based, spun a great tale. In reality no
precious, jewel-covered winged figure ever existed. However, the Maltese
falcon is not a figment of a novelist's imagination. Such an creature
actually did exist and it played an important role in the history of the
Mediterranean.
Location,
Location, Location
The Maltese
archipelago lies in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea between Italy
and northern Africa. The chain is situated about 60 miles south of
Sicily and 180 miles east of Tunisia, and it straddles the 36th
parallel. The tiny nation is composed of three inhabited islands (Malta,
Gozo and Comino) and three islets, or big rocks (Cominotto, Filfla and
St. Paul's Island). In satellite images the fragments of land look like
crumbs that have fallen off their huge Sicilian neighbor.
Many cultures have coveted the small chain of islands. Due to their
strategic location, Malta and her two small sisters, have been the
targets of a long succession of invaders and conquerors, including
Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, French, Arabs and Turks. To this
list of intruders add hordes of pirates of various nationalities and
boatloads of British colonials. And St. Paul, who survived a shipwreck on the
rocks in 60 A.D. and converted the entire population to Christianity.
Each of these gate-crashers contributed an ingredient to the rich
cultural stew that is the modern-day Republic of Malta.
Powerful Crusaders
Indisputably the
most potent influence upon the Maltese crossroads was exerted by a group
of crusading, hospital-building, multinational aristocrats known as the
Knights of Malta. The story of this monastic community, originally
called "The Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem," begins long
before its reign in Malta. The religious fraternity was founded in 1099
before the taking of Jerusalem by the armies of the First Crusade.
Only
sons chosen from noble European families of were offered membership in
the exclusive club. As a result of the vast wealth the rich scions
brought with them (and later from extensive privateering), the group
possessed plenty of resources and lots of prestige.
The wealthy brothers' first order of business was to build and
administer a hospital for pilgrims in the Holy Land. Later the
hospitalers felt obliged to become a military unit. They were needed to
defend crusader territory and to protect pilgrims from bandits and gangs
of marauding infidels. During this period the brotherhood acquired the
status of knighthood.
When the Turks ejected the Knights from their headquarters in Rhodes in
1522, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, gave his military men the
choice of Malta or Tripoli as a new home base. The Knights didn't like
either choice, but they figured no place could be less hospitable than
hot dry Tripoli – they opted for Malta.
The Knights' Rule
In 1530 Charles
deeded the Maltese islands to the grand masters in return for a symbolic
annual rent of one live bird, a Maltese falcon, which was to be
presented yearly to the emperor's viceroy in Sicily. The tribute
represented the role the Knights played for Christendom – they served as
protective "birds of prey" for the empire.
The religious warriors ruled the Maltese archipelago for 268 years and,
in the process, they transformed the small island country. Evidence of
the industrious Knights' occupation can be seen everywhere, but most
noticeably in the gorgeously carved and faceted architecture of the
islands' cities, towns and villages.
Massive
stone-walled citadels and battlements, impressive turreted basilicas,
and charming, narrow-laned hamlets crown Malta's many hills. Most were
built in the 16th century by these authentic knights in shining armor.
Multitudes of Maltese crosses, the eight-pointed emblem of the order,
were chiseled into golden limestone surfaces, putting the Knights' stamp
on the place for all time.
Opulent Palaces
Although the
Knights took vows of chastity, obedience and poverty, they became
slackers over the years. The grand masters lived in princely luxury in
castle-like headquarters called auberges. These luxurious palaces were
segregated into eight nationalities (Provence, Auvergne, Aragon,
Castille, Leon, Italy, Germany, and England) and were designed and
decorated to reflect the homeland culture of the Knights who lived
there. No English duke or French viscount lived in more a more splendid
style than a grand master of Malta.
The imposing, historically-significant residences still dominate the
cityscape of Valetta, although now they function as government
buildings. For example, the Auberge de Castille et Leon is now the prime
minister's residence and the National Museum of Archeology is housed in
what was once the Auberge de Provence.
The Grandest Master of Them All
The most famous
Grand Master was Jean de La Vallette, who is credited with building the
imposing fortress city of Valetta. The reinforced capital was
constructed in a hurry after the original fortifications just barely
fended off an onslaught in 1551 by the minions of the Turkish sultan
(and the Knights' archenemy) Suleiman the Magnificent. The mighty
limestone bastions jut out into the sapphire water of Grand Harbor like
the prows of colossal ships and no one can look upon them without
conjuring up images from children's picture books, of heated battles
between scimitar-wielding, turbaned infidels and mace-bearing knights
clad in mail.
No record exists that supports the notion that the wealthy Knights
showed off in 1539 by having a jeweled bird fashioned from solid gold, which
they sent to the emperor's representative in a treasure galleon,
although Dashiell Hammett's fabrication certainly thickened the plot of
his thriller. In reality, the Maltese falcon was a living bird of prey
which symbolized the power and prowess of the strong military arm of the
Holy Roman Empire, the Knights of Malta. The true story of Maltese
falcon stimulates the imagination, too.
Stephanie
Fletcher has contributed previously to The Cultured Traveler.
 
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