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Volume 5, November 2003 |
ISSN 1538-893X |
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Verde Valley Railroad
by Teresa A. Propeck,
Verde Canyon Railroad |
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On
departure, the train’s colorful narrator bids farewell to the mining town of
Jerome, positioned majestically at 5,400 feet on Mingus Mountain. The rail line
from Jerome, originally built to haul cooper ore to the Clarkdale smelter, is
only a fleeting memory. However, the 40-acre man-made mountain of once molten
rock and the haunting, old power plant still remain along the tracks of the
Verde Canyon Railroad, gentle reminders of an industry that shaped an entire
community almost a century ago. Whether
you’re riding in coach or first-class accommodations, the windows inside are
large and panoramic, providing majestic views, all within climate-controlled
cabins. For those passengers wanting to indulge all of the senses, the canyon is
most enjoyable from the open-air viewing cars, accessible from all coaches. The
moderate temperatures of the Verde Canyon make it possible for passengers to
enjoy the comfort of the open-air cars in all seasons. Before
entering the inner chasm of the Verde Canyon, passengers stand in awe at a
series of dwellings tucked into the cliffs looming above the track. Once a safe
haven for the Sinagua Indians, the dwellings are a reminder that man has
marveled at this landscape for centuries. Passing over the S.O.B. trestle, which
traverses a small box canyon, passengers also marvel at the crystal clear waters
of the Verde River, the canyon’s lifegiver, as it winds deeper into a basalt
gorge. The
volcanic cliffs along the river provide another safe haven, this time for a
resident pair of bald eagles who have produced seven eagles since 1993,
sometimes in sets of twins. The only way to view these magnificent creatures,
along with the multitudes of bald and golden eagles visiting the canyon each
winter, is by train. The region also hosts other indigenous and migratory birds,
including native quail, red-tailed hawks and a wide array of ducks, easily
spotted from the train. The
Verde Canyon, adjacent to the Sycamore Wilderness, is a lively riparian
sanctuary. Train passengers are likely to see deer and javelina along the
river’s edge. Signs of beaver and otter have been observed, on occasion. The
river itself is alive with minnows, native suckers, trout and smallmouth bass.
The water sparkles over shallow rapids, where the Great Blue Heron is often seen
fishing.
Passengers
are lulled as the wheels turn with elegant grace along the sturdy rails,
ambience only a train can create, but the focus shifts as the whistles blows,
signaling the tunnel ahead. A 680-foot pathway blasted through solid rock,
carrying the train from the bright light of day to black, and back to brilliant
sunlight. More Indian dwellings, a monocline fold and 50-foot canopies of
cottonwoods are unveiled as the train’s narrator continues to weave colorful
stories about the adventure ahead and the history that has gone before. As
the canyon walls begin to peel away, the train crosses a stoic steel bridge
entering Perkinsville, the journey’s midpoint. The old working cattle ranch,
settled by A.M. Perkins at the turn-of-the-century, was one of the sites for the
classic film How the West was Won. The
ranch is still a working ranch and was once a watering station for the great
iron horses. It is still a remarkable western backdrop, as the Verde Canyon
Railroad’s historic FP7 diesel engines switch from one end of the train to the
other. Passengers
are given a second opportunity to absorb the beauty of the Verde Canyon or enjoy
the amenities and comfort of their coaches, as the train embarks on its return
trip to Clarkdale. Astute train attendants will convey a new impression of the
beauty, the history, the wildlife and the spectacular scenery only the Verde
Canyon can offer. As the train pulls into the station, passengers will debark
knowing it’s not the destination, it’s the journey. Note: Trains depart year-round on a varied schedule. The copper Spike Café, Boxcar Gifts and John Bell Museum are located in the Railroad’s southwestern-style depot built in 1997. Train fares are $59.95 first-class (all ages), $39.95 adult coach, $35.95 senior coach (65+) and $24.95 child coach (2-12). All enclosed cars access outdoor viewing cars. Admission to the museum is free.
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