Train travel has been a passion of mine since growing up as a boy in the UK. Our family only used the train on special occasions, so I was always excited when we did. Normally this was on a special holiday excursion in the summertime to a beach resort about a two-hour ride away.

Because of these nostalgic childhood memories I still feel a sense of anticipation for the journey ahead each time I board a train, even a commuter one. I really like the movement of the train along the tracks and the clattering sounds it makes over the rails. For this reason I make it a purpose to seek out a train ride, or even just a visit to a train station, any time I visit a new country.

Most readers are no doubt familiar with the famous train routes such as the Trans-Siberian across Russia or South Africa’s Blue Train or even the heyday of the glamorous Orient Express from times past. But how about Vietnam’s “Unification Express” from Saigon to Hanoi? This is a train ride for the more adventurous to seriously consider.

Train tracks were initially laid in the then French controlled Vietnam in 1881. Four years later on July 20, 1885, the first train ran from Saigon to Mytho. Construction continued at a steady pace from then till the mid 1930’s, by which time an extensive network had been laid throughout the country. The narrow gauge French- style track was used and is still the standard today, though upgrades to a more comfortable wider gauge is frequently said to be under consideration.

While train service continued independently in both the North and South of the country during the Vietnam War period, the track and equipment suffered from bombing in the North and Viet Cong attacks in the South. With assistance from the Soviet Union and China, the infrastructure was repaired and improved in the post-war years and the North-South route reopened.

With more than 1,750 miles of track in current use, the network includes most of the major cities in the country as well as many smaller towns. The system is well used as train travel is popular with locals and much cheaper for them than flying, though as with some other countries foreigners are charged double or triple the ticket price of locals. Booking tickets individually on the spot is possible but can be tricky, especially during peak season or holidays or for the limited space available in the better accommodations so it is wise to arrange your trip in advance through a specialist operator.

Train travel in Vietnam provides a great way to see the country at ground level and in a leisurely manner, especially since the maximum speed rarely exceeds 30 mph. You definitely get a real sense of travel and the distance between places.

Exploring Saigon

Before beginning the journey it is wise to spend a few days in Saigon. A general city tour will introduce you to the sights and sounds of this colorful metropolis. Of course you can visit the Presidential Palace and the War Museum, but try also to take time for a stroll through the markets area or a visit to a lacquer box factory to encounter some other aspects of the Vietnamese culture.

An out-of-town excursion to the extensive network of wartime tunnels at Cu Chi is also fascinating. They have been widened a little so that most people can go down inside to see where whole communities lived during the war. A stop at the Cao Dai Temple at Tay Ninh should be included on the way back to Saigon. Here you can hopefully catch part of the vibrant daily service featuring over 400 colorfully attired monks.

The “Unification Express” is the name given to the route from Saigon to Hanoi. There are a few though-trains operating daily on this route, but the best, and fastest, is the “E2” Express. This train departs Saigon at 11 p.m. and reaches Hanoi 30 hours later at 5 a.m., so you get a full day and two nights on board to savor the experience. A similar Express, the “E1”, travels in the opposite direction at the same times.

It is possible, of course, to stop off along the way. For instance NhaTrang, DaNang and Hue are each an interesting destination in their own right for a day or two. However, due to the archaic booking system, it may not always be possible to get onward tickets on the better Express trains which would mean sampling one of the “hard-class”-only local trains for a leg of the journey.

Accommodations on the trains are varied. The least desirable are the “hard seats,” which are just basic wooden undivided booth-style seats in open cars. They don’t offer any privacy, have little luggage space and are extremely uncomfortable for a long ride. “Soft seats,” which are the next step up, are only a little better feeling – they feel “soft” only after you’ve done a spell on the hard seats! “Hard Sleeper Berths” have six fold-down wooden benches, three on each side, in a compartment with a sliding door.

The best available accommodations, and definitely recommended for the journey, are the “Soft Sleeper Berths.” These have four benches with foam rubber covers in a compartment with a sliding door. While not luxurious by any means, they are relatively comfortable for most travelers. The picture window has a metal grate that can be raised or lowered. While it does obscure the view somewhat when lowered, these are stated to be for passengers’ safety as young hooligans sometimes throw stones at the passing trains.

On the other side the compartment opens onto a corridor which can be a real social club. Apart from the people wandering up and down the train, and the ticket collectors popping in and out, sometimes for no apparent reason, other people gather in the corridor to sit and watch the scenery or to chat or play games. This makes it a great place for making friends. Some locals will want to practice their English while others will be happy to communicate via universal hand signals and facial expressions. Try bringing some pictures or postcards from home to show around as a great way to gather a crowd of admirers.

Two trains, one track 

As there is only one track connecting Saigon and Hanoi, elaborate passing strategies have been developed for the many trains using it. Apart from the regular rather slow speed at which the train moves, at many times it will pull off to the side on a lay-by to wait for a train going the opposite direction to pass. These delays, and other unexplained stops, should be treated as all part of the experience.

In fact time seems to pass in a decidedly enjoyable and relaxing way on the train. Looking out the windows at the passing scenery is definitely viewing a different world. Hours can literally pass as you get enthralled by the rice fields with people in traditional sunhats working them, or the water buffalo being used to plow the fields or the young children playing games near the small houses.

As the train runs along the coastline, a new vista presents itself: small fishing boats bobbing around in the ocean, with the picturesque kharst (limestone dissolved into fantastic shapes) islands and cliffs in the background. These are especially beautiful in the magical light of sunrise or sunset. All this is quite a contrast to the hustle and bustle of Saigon, which in itself was a lot different from our home towns. For those who enjoy the amusement park thrill of them, there are 27 tunnels, some quite long, to pass through on the route from Saigon to Hanoi.

Meals are provided in the better class sections. These are Vietnamese style with no choice of menu and they seem to come at irregular and unpredictable times. While most meals are edible, though certainly not gourmet, if you don’t like “mystery meat” you may prefer to stock up on snacks from home for the journey, or buy more identifiable products at some of the stops along the way.

And a word about the bathrooms: They are the basic hole in the floor type, so one should endeavor to spend as little time as possible in them. It must also be pointed out that while most people are kind and trustworthy it makes sense to keep a close eye on your valuables and other possessions. Try especially not to flaunt, even unintentionally, your cameras, wallet etc. so as not to offer temptation to a dishonest person. And try to make friends with the attendants as there are many useful services they can offer you.

When you reach Hanoi, save at least a few days for sightseeing in and around the city. The contrasts with Saigon are dramatic. You should most certainly plan to see a performance of the water puppets and if possible make the out-of-town excursion to peaceful and scenic Ha Long Bay for a boat ride on a traditional junk.

Vietnam is a fascinating country where ancient meets modern in many dramatic ways. Using the train to travel between cities will give you neat insights to the land, the culture and the people in many ways not possible with air travel. Seeing at least part of the country by train is a wonderful and memorable experience that every visitor should be encouraged to take.