California Gray Whale

Many of the tour operators in the southern half of the Baja peninsula, in the state of Baja California Sur, Mexico base out of Loreto or La Paz; coastal communities on the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula. Most of the tours visit uninhabited islands and coastlines near those two starting points. (The reason no multi-day tours go out of Cabo San Lucas is because there are no nearby islands to paddle to/camp on, and the sea is much more exposed there).  The southern half of the Baja peninsula also provides the best chances of seeing whales.

Loreto & La Paz comparison

Loreto is a sleepy Mexican fishing village about 8 hours by car north of Cabo San Lucas. It was the original capital of the peninsula until 1828 when a hurricane leveled the town and the capital was permanently moved to La Paz. La Paz, a city of 280,000, is the main ferry terminus to mainland Mexico, and is located approximately half way between Loreto and Cabo.

Loreto has limited flights arriving daily from Los Angeles or San Diego on Alaska, Aero Mexico and Aero California. La Paz has more options of flights in and out on those carriers and others. Loreto is a 2-day drive south from San Diego in California, USA. Some guests elect to fly into Cabo San Lucas to take advantage of cheap flights, and then take an air-conditioned bus north to either Loreto or La Paz for a fraction of what it would cost in USA.
 
Both Loreto and La Paz have several large uninhabited islands nearby that are exquisite for paddling and exploring. Both Loreto and La Paz are within reach of Magdalena Bay, the gray whale lagoon on the Pacific side of the peninsula. All the islands in the Sea of Cortez and all three gray whale lagoons on the Pacific Coast have Mexican national park status, and all outfitters and private parties must have the proper permits. Be sure to go with an outfitter than has the proper operating permits, or if you are in a private party do obtain the proper regulations and permits from the national park office in both communities, as federal officers do regular site inspections in the park areas.

Private parties are not permitted at all in Magdalena Bay, although they are allowed with permits in the Sea of Cortez. Permitted outfitters are committed to preserving the laws and environment in which they operate and must pay all appropriate taxes to Mexico, must hire and train locals to be sea kayak guides and logistics managers, and have proper liability insurance and safety procedures/training for all staff.
 
Self-supported vs. motorboat supported tours

Most sea kayak tour operators fall into either of these two camps, so be sure you inquire about what kind of tour the company runs, and what they include in the tour price. Most tour outfitters have mostly double kayaks since the majority of guests are fairly new to kayaking, and because of their greater carrying capacity, but some will have single kayaks along, too, for folks to rotate into. So these are other issues to explore when making your plans.

Weather in Baja California Sur

Daytime temperatures late December through February range from the 70’s to 80’s (degrees F), and night temperatures can dip to the upper 40’s or low 50's F, requiring a warm sweater and hat. March through early May, temperatures range from the mid-80’s to mid-90’s F during the day, and 55-60 F at night. While rain is infrequent on the Baja peninsula, it does occur December through February on occasion. Bring synthetic and cotton clothes, in layers to provide for weather extremes (your outfitter will provide an equipment list).

Water temperatures range from 68 to72 degrees F (most find a wetsuit is a good idea December through March for snorkeling - so ask your outfitter if these are available to rent). SPF clothing, light-colored, long-sleeved shirt and long pants & hats are rapidly gaining in popularity and are great for outdoor travel in sunny climes. Periods of strong winds for up to 2-3 days at a time can occur in this part of the world from November through March, although they start tapering off in February and March. Hurricane season is August through November. Temperatures soar above 115 degrees F in June, July and August, thus most outfitters don’t operate sea kayak tours then.

Whales in Baja California Sur

Fin Whale

The rare blue whale, which is the largest living creature in the world today, and the fin whale frequent the Sea of Cortez January through April, as well as the occasional humpback whale. The once endangered California gray whale, whose population now numbers about 28,000, migrates each fall and winter down the Pacific coast from Alaska to spend the month of February and first couple weeks of March in the three large lagoon/inner waterways of Baja California peninsula's Pacific coast. There they rest, give birth and mate before heading beck toward Alaska in late March.

Mexico strictly protects the three California gray whale lagoons, thus one can only go into the lagoons with a licensed sea kayak tour operator or motorized tour operator. Common dolphins, bottle nose dolphins and California sea lions are commonly seen throughout the waters of Baja. A common myth is that one can pet a whale from a kayak - this has never been known to happen.  Whales move much faster than a kayak can paddle, and have never shown curiosity in kayaks.

However, it is becoming more and more common for gray whales in the lagoons of the Pacific coast to approach motorized boats and even occasionally be petted by humans. The boat operators licensed by the Mexican government are quite expert at knowing how to read the whales' behavior, and allowing the whales to dictate how any visitations will go.  The whales are given complete freedom to linger or leave as they please.

Why go with an outfitter

The seas and winds in the Sea of Cortez can be quite challenging at times, and destinations remote, thus seasoned sea kayak guides are an invaluable asset unless you are very experienced with self-supported tours in this kind of environment.  There are weather patterns unique to the Sea of Cortez.  A permitted outfitter will have the knowledge; experience, sound equipment, and the commitment to safety and service that can allow you to relax and enjoy your vacation in Baja California. Also, due to the remoteness of the southern part of the Baja peninsula, the weather, and liability issues, finding expedition kayaks to rent in Loreto or La Paz is extremely difficult (outfitters don't want to rent out their touring boats since they need them to run their tours).   Most outfitters will have trips suitable for novices in good health as well as for more experienced kayakers.

Why Sea Kayaking

Sea kayak touring is a magical, quiet sport quickly and easily learned; the craft are stable and seaworthy. Wildlife is less threatened by a person quietly drifting by in a kayak than any other approach. It is a great way to spend time with new friends in a wilderness setting. Kayaks can carry more gear than backpacks so many former hikers are turning to sea kayaking. In a kayak, one can slip easily into places that a motorboat or person on foot cannot.  Come see why sea kayaking is exploding in popularity, by going on a guided sea kayak tour in a beautiful, serene setting.