The Republic of Macedonia (also known as the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia), lies in relative obscurity in the southern Balkans, bordered by Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Albania. Few backpackers list it among their must-see European destinations, but those who have been there remember it fondly for its beautiful mountains and lakes, Orthodox churches, friendly villages, and delicious foods. The country’s most treasured city, Ohrid, is often considered to be the pearl of the Balkans and, as such, should not be missed.

For years, the city of Ohrid, near Macedonia’s border with Albania, was a popular tourist destination, particularly for northern Europeans. However, the break-up of Yugoslavia and the subsequent fighting in Serbian Kosovo along the country’s northern border sent the small nation’s tourism industry into a tailspin. Fortunately, the fighting has now ended and Ohrid’s tourism infrastructure remains intact, beckoning travelers to explore its relatively unknown treasures.

The city of Ohrid sits on the shores of Lake Ohrid, one of the oldest tectonic lakes in the world. Lake Ohrid is the deepest and second-largest lake in the Balkans. Its vivid blue waters are surprisingly clear with visibility of up to 20 meters in some places and are home to more than 200 endemic species. Both the city and the lake were named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980, in recognition of the region’s outstanding natural, cultural, and historical characteristics.

Photo by Jack Dougherty. St. Jovan Kaneo church atop a cliff overlooking Lake Ohrid

Ohrid is one of the oldest cities in the Balkans. Previously known as Lychnidos (the “City of Light”), it was a regional center of culture and learning, the site of the first Slavic university, and a key player in the development of the Cyrillic alphabet. Countless frescos, mosaics, and icons attest to the rich Slavic traditions that the city was built on, but Ohrid also bears evidence of Turkish and Muslim influence stretching back to its years under the Ottoman Empire. Consequently, today one can marvel at the coexistence of Macedonian Orthodox churches and Muslim mosques while listening to the sounds of Orthodox monastic chants and Muslim prayer calls mingling in the air.

Known as “the city of 365 churches,” Ohrid is famous for its Byzantine churches, basilicas, and monasteries. St. Bogorodica Perivlepta (St. Clement) church dates from the 13^th century and has an icon gallery that is second only to that of the Tretiakov Gallery in Moscow. Other famous churches include the 11^th-century St. Sophia church and the 10^th-century St.Pantelejmon church, which stands on the site of the world’s oldest Slavic monestary. The 13^th-century St. Jovan Kaneo church is one of Ohrid’s most popular churches because of its stunning scenic location, as it stands on a cliff jutting over Lake Ohrid. Outside of the city, simpler “cave churches” precariously cling to the sides of cliffs and can be reached only by clambering up steep, rocky stairs, but the climb is well worth the effort.

Scattered among these Orthodox churches are several Muslim mosques. One of the most interesting is referred to as “Cross Mosque,” so named because a small cross stands atop its minaret. Many locals say that when the mosque was built, the minaret repeatedly fell down and was reconstructed only to fall down again, until the problem was solved by placing a cross on top. Regardless of whether the story is true, it is an interesting illustration of how Christian and Muslim traditions have learned to coexist here in relative peace throughout the centuries.

The house of the Robevi family in Ohrid, now the Museum of the City of Ohrid, an example of old town architecture.

When Ohrid was part of the Ottoman Empire, Turks settled along the lake and Christians were forced to live within the walled section of the city on the hills. As the population grew, the local residents developed a new style of architecture to accommodate their cramped living conditions. To create more space, some of the houses’ upper floors were built over the streets, creating tunnel-like passages for the pedestrians below. Today, visitors can walk through the oldest parts of town along narrow, winding cobblestone streets that are lined with tightly-packed homes. Some of the most beautiful structures, including the Robevci and Uranija homes, are now open to tourists for a small fee.

Climbing up from these winding, cobblestone streets, visitors pass through a forested area and suddenly find themselves walking through (and sometimes on) the shockingly unprotected, exposed mosaic floors of a ruined Roman basilica. Just above these ruins stand the remains of a walled fortress dating from the 11^th century, known as Tsar Samuel’s Fortress. The fortress ruins are perhaps the best place to appreciate the breathtaking, panoramic views of the lake, mountains, and Ohrid’s steep hills that are covered with traditional white houses bearing red roofs.

Leisurely walking back down from the fortress, visitors pass an ancient Hellenic amphitheater that has only recently been fully excavated and partially reconstructed. The site is now used for the Ohrid Summer Festival, held every July and August. Since 1961, this festival has presented theatrical, musical, and dance performances by local and international artists on stunning stages – either in the Hellenic amphitheater, in the vestibule of the 11^th-century St. Sophia church, or on a summer stage known as Dolni Saraj. At the same time each year, national and international poets gather to read their works aloud during Struga Poetry Evenings on an old wooden bridge in the nearby town of Struga, the birthplace of Macedonian poets Dimitar and Konstantin Miladinov.

Back in the city center, Ohrid’s main pedestrian street connects to walkways along the water’s edge, where men are happy to sell visitors short boat rides to their favorite beaches. The street that leads to the lake is lined with small stores, art galleries, and cafés with outdoor seating. At night, the streets come alive, filled with live musicians, portrait artists, and vendors selling roasted chestnuts and other local treats. While wandering around, be sure to step into the jewelry stores to browse the famous Ohrid “pearls,” which are made from the scales of a small fish known as plasica and are usually set in intricate silver filigree.  

Perfect after a long day of walking, Ohrid’s restaurants feature Macedonia’s tempting, flavorful Mediterranean cuisine, similar to that of Turkey and Greece. Moussaka (a layered dish of eggplant, potatoes, and meat), stuffed peppers, and tavche gravche (baked white beans) are typical national dishes. Be sure to try the local specialties: delicious pastrmka (Ohrid trout), white fish, and eel. Finish the meal with a glass of red wine from the nearby Tikvesh vineyards or a shot of rakija (local brandy) or mastika (an anis-flavored liqueur).

Ohrid and the nearby towns along the lake’s eastern shores at the base of Galicica National Park offer friendly and inexpensive bed-and-breakfast accommodations, many of which are only a few steps from the water´s edge. Further south along the lake’s shore, near the Albanian border, visitors can sleep in converted monastery dormitories at St. Naum Monastery, the site of the first university in the Balkans. The original church was built in 910, but the presentday structure was reconstructed in the 16^th century. The monastery’s sandy beaches, views of the lake, nearby springs, and wandering white peacocks make it a popular destination for locals and foreign travelers alike.

Macedonians, eager to share their country’s unparalleled natural beauty, vibrant culture, and rich history, embrace foreign visitors with open arms. Because the country isn’t as heavily visited as other European countries, travelers find that food and accommodations are much less expensive here than in more heavily traveled Western Europe. For all these reasons and more, a visit to Ohrid offers travelers an unforgettable combination of natural beauty and historical and cultural treasures.

Jessica Brown served as a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer in the Republic of Macedonia from 2000 to 2001. She worked with non-governmental organizations in Ohrid and Struga and traveled extensively throughout the country. She and her husband currently live in Peru, where she works as a freelance writer.