Day of the Dead offerings, Mexico Tourism

If you really look for them you can find a festival for anything. Somewhere in the world, someone is celebrating everything from elephants to string to beetles. And food is one of the things that draws people to the celebration. But there is nothing more amazing than when the festival is about food. 

In a small village in Mexico there is the most amazing smell in air. This is not the easiest thing in the world since it is on the southern edge of Mexico City, the world’s most air-polluted city. But as fall approaches, the smell becomes palpable. Every breath contains spices that invigorate the body. You are transported to another world where food is so much more than sustenance. 

For three weeks in October the Festival del Mole takes place in San Pedro Actopan. Scores of temporary restaurants are erected in the streets, along with hundreds of stalls, overflowing with towering mounds of mole paste, creating the most mouthwatering aromas I’ve ever experienced. Mole means sauce and this festival celebrates sauce in thousands of variations.

For the Mexican people, mole is a serious business. Anyone who’s ever been interested in food has probably heard of Chicken Mole. This is one of the mole recipes that can by found on the menu of most Mexican restaurants in the U.S. But what about those of us that want to try more? Finding mole varieties in abundance is simple once you cross the border. However, if you really want to sample the best of the best, consider going to one of the mole festivals in San Pedro Actopan or Oaxaca. There you will find the base pastes that span the color range from the deepest black to sunny yellow. Each mole recipe is different and some have been handed down through many generations. 

Ask one of the cheerful vendors how they make any of their pastes and you’ll hear remarkable tales of hand ground spices, constant tasting and good eating. But ask for a recipe and expect to use a bit of charm and a lot of guessing. Most people who cook anything in Mexico do so without the use of written recipes and Mole recipes are no exception. 

When I approached a stall cared for by a teenage girl and her mother and asked for the recipe for a glistening, green paste, the girl looked at me quizzically  for a moment, then it suddenly dawned on her what I was asking. She smiled a huge and enlightened smile. “Oh, mole does not have instructions. Mole is just made.” I asked questions about spice amounts and how it was cooked but essentially determined that it is not something that can be shared with words. To learn mole cooking properly, you must be shown. You must participate. 

Until then, stock up in San Pedro Actopan. Mole paste will keep for several months in the refrigerator – longer in the freezer – and travels well. Buy a portion of several varieties. You’ll be given small packets of pure culinary gold. When you get home try it out on everything. Add various meats and pour it over rice or pasta or potatoes. You’ll be addicted. 

Below is a mole recipe that is just an approximation of the varieties available in Mexico, but it should do until you can see for yourself.

Basic Mole Paste 

Ingredients:  

• 10 dried ancho chilies

• 6 dried pasilla negro chilies

• 1/3 cup raisins

• 3 tbsp oil or lard

• 1/2 cup almonds

• 1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds

• 3 corn tortillas

• 1-1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

• 6 whole cloves

• 1 tsp black peppercorns

• 1 1/2 t dried oregano

• 1 round of Ibarra Mexican Chocolate (3.1 oz.)

Instructions:

Wash the dried chilies under cold running water (DO NOT use hot water since this will increase the chili fumes). Shake out the chili seeds and break off the stems.

Heat a non-stick skillet and toast the chilies in batches. The chilies should soften and slightly brown. Do not blacken them or they will become bitter. (If the chili fumes are causing your eyes to water, you might consider goggles and gloves.)  When they are all toasted, place them in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave them to steep for 30 minutes. Add the raisins to the hot water to soak, too.

While the chilies are soaking, place the oil, almonds and pumpkin seeds in a skillet. Grill them until they begin to turn golden brown. Stir them frequently to prevent them from over cooking or burning.

At the same time, place the corn tortillas to toast in the oven. It will only take a few minutes until they are slightly browned and crunchy on the edges.

Place the cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns in a mortar or use a spice grinder. Set aside.

Grind the chilies, almonds, and pumpkin seeds in a blender in several batches. Add some soaking water for the desired consistency of thick gravy (if soaking water tastes bitter, use plain water instead), so that the mole paste will purée smoothly.

When grinding the last batch, add the raisins, crushed spices, tortillas, oregano and chocolate, broken into small pieces. Then mix all the batches together by hand.

Makes about 1 quart of mole paste.

Fianna MacGregor is a certified chef and travel writer.  She currently publishes several zines on art, cooking and travel.