Holiday Cooking, Texas-Style

People who live in Texas will be the first to tell you that it is like its own country; but this massive state is more like many countries rolled into one. From the rugged mountains of Big Bend to the cypress bayous of Caddo Lake, the expansive plains of the Panhandle to the miles of beaches on the Gulf Coast each corner of the state offers a unique experience.

The Texas Hill Country, right in the center of the state, or as some might say, “deep in the heart,” offers cool, spring-fed rivers flowing through an undulating landscape of gently sloping hills and lush valleys, especially around Wimberley, just west of Austin, the state capital. It’s no wonder that the first settlers to the area named it Paradise Valley.

Here in the Texas Hill Country, more than in any other part of the state, the cultural influences of all the settlers, from Germany, Mexico, England, Spain, and elsewhere, have come together to give the region a unique character. This mix of cultures and the natural abundance of the area for fresh produce and wild game have created a truly original Texas Hill Country Cuisine.

Particularly during the holiday season, the blend of traditions makes for unique dining experiences. Traditional German breads and wursts share the table with tamales and flans. Wild turkeys and venison roasts replace Butterballs and hams. At the Blair House Inn, we have put together a menu of Hill Country holiday favorites for our guests that captures the diversity as well as the unique character of the region. If you are looking to try something different in the kitchen this holiday season, you may want to try a few of these holiday dishes done Texas style.

Coriander Cured Loin of Venison with Cranberry-Chipotle Sauce
and Sweet Onion Confit (Serves 8)

4 tablespoons coriander seeds
4 tablespoons black peppercorns
4 shallots, minced
4 cloves garlic, minced
¾ cup kosher salt
6 tablespoons dark brown sugar
¼ cup olive oil
1 venison loin, about 2 pounds, cleaned
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
salt to taste

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the coriander seeds and the peppercorn for about 1 minute until coarsely ground. Add the shallots, garlic, kosher salt, and sugar. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil to make a thick paste. Transfer to a mixing bowl, add venison, and let cure for at least three hours, turning occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat the vegetable oil in the skillet over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Remove the venison from the bowl and scrape clean. Season with salt and sear in the skillet. Transfer to an ovenproof baking dish and cook in the oven for 15 to 18 minutes for medium rare.

When the venison is done, remove from the oven and let rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Slice and serve with sweet onion confit and drizzle with Cranberry-Chipotle Sauce

Sweet Onion Confit

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup sliced sweet onions, such as Texas Spring Sweet
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste

Over medium heat, melt the butter in a skillet. Add the onions and sauté for 1 minute. Add the sugar and cook until it has dissolved. Do not let it caramelize. Deglaze the skillet with the vinegars and cook until the liquid has evaporated, about 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt.

Cranberry-Chipotle Sauce

2 tablespoons minced shallots
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups cranberries
3 tablespoons sugar
1 cup red wine
2 ½ cups reduced venison or brown veal stock
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon chipotle chile puree
1 tablespoon chopped sage
1 tablespoon unsalted butter at room temperature
8 sage leaves, for garnish

Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of the butter from the skillet. Add the shallots and garlic, and cook for 20 seconds. Add the cranberries and sugar, and cook for 30 seconds longer.

Deglaze with the wine and reduce by three quarters over high heat (about 8 minutes). Add the stock, chipotle puree and chopped sage. Reduce by one third and strain through a fine sieve. Return to a clean saucepan and heat to boiling. Whisk in the butter, remove from the heat and season.

Texas Apple-Pecan Strudel

Strudel Dough:

2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 3 tablespoons
1 Tablespoon vinegar
1 egg, slightly beaten
¼ cup warm water
¼ teaspoon salt
1-2/3 cups all purpose flour

Filling:

8 cups tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced thin
½ cup unsalted butter, melted
1 cup chopped pecans, toasted
1 cup raisins
1 cup graham cracker crumbs
½ cup dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
1-½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt

In a medium bowl, pour the water over the 2 tablespoons butter and stir until melted. Add in the egg and the vinegar and mix well. Mix in the flour and salt until a sticky ball forms. Sprinkle a pastry board with more flour and knead for 5 minutes or until the dough is smooth and shiny. Form into a ball, cover and let sit in a warm place with no breeze. Meanwhile, make the filling. Toss together all the ingredients in a large bowl until thoroughly mixed. Set aside.

Cover your work surface with a pastry cloth and sprinkle with flour. Center the dough ball and using your hand, flatten it to be as thin as possible. Next, with your hand under the dough, pull it, starting from the center and turning the dough as you work to make it almost paper thin. When your dough is about 18” x24” and roughly rectangular, it is ready.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a baking sheet, brush the dough with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Cover the dough completely with a single layer of filling. Using the pastry cloth, roll the dough like a jelly roll. Pinch it closed at the ends and, using the cloth, transfer it to the baking sheet. Brush with the remaining butter and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and let cook for an additional 25 minutes or until lightly browned. Let rest at least 20 minutes before slicing.