|
 By
Stephanie D. Fletcher
 Most savvy international travelers are familiar with Carnival, the monster
samba party Rio de Janeiro hosts before Lent every year, however, few are
aware of the second blow-out the Brazilian city stages annually. The feast
of Iemanja, the Goddess of the Sea, coincides with New Year celebrations
and this synchronicity results in a unique extravaganza that combines
Afro-Brazilian religious rituals with dancing, fireworks, and general
merrymaking. Copacabana Beach is ground zero for this huge and amazing
spectacle.
Catholicism is Brazil's official religion; however, it is declining in
popularity. A significant percentage of Rio's 10 million citizens are
attracted to Afro-Brazilian cults and mysticism. African religious beliefs
arrived in Brazil during the 16th through the 19th centuries by way of the
slave trade. Today, the Macumba cult predominates. This religious group
believes in a panoply of gods and goddesses called the Orixás. Like an
ancient Greek or Roman deity, an orixá has a distinct personality and
particular preferences. And each god is worshipped at a specific time and
place.
Iemanja is the orixá of all waters, including the ocean. According to
African mythology she is the daughter of sky and earth and she bore 15
children, so cult followers also call her "Mother of All." Believers pay
homage to The Queen of The Sea beside water and, although Rio's other
beaches will do, Copacabana Beach is the favored worship setting.
Every December 31st more than two million revelers clad in white make
their way to Rio's most famous stretch of sand to celebrate the new year
and to honor Iemanja. They begin arriving in the afternoon. Even Cariocas
who do not adhere to the Macumba faith are happy to don snowy garb and
become devotees for one night to take part in the festivities. After all,
the nickname for a Rio resident - "Carioca" - means an exuberant,
fun-loving person who is always looking for a good time.
Celebrants carry white and blue flowers, candles, perfume, champagne,
cosmetics, and talcum powder as offerings for the vain goddess. During the
night these gifts are offered to the sea - some lined up along the edge of
the surf, others launched in small boats made especially for the occasion.
If the offerings are swept out to sea this is a sign of acceptance and the
supplicant can expect good luck, health, money, a fantastic love life, and
all kinds of other goodies throughout the year. If the offerings return to
shore it means the owners have displeased Iemanja - Uh-oh!
A few moments before twelve, throngs move across the sand toward the surf.
At the stroke of midnight hundreds of thousands of flowers are flung into
the waves and people put their feet in the water, asking Iemanja for her
protection and blessing. At the same instant a monumental barrage of
fireworks explodes overhead and along the 2.4-mile crescent beach as
individual sponsors try to outdo each other with fantastic light shows.
The splendid entertainment lasts almost twenty minutes.
After the fireworks folks stroll along the sand or head for private and
reservation-only parties. In the morning, luxury hotels along the beach
serve extravagant breakfasts. January 1st is a quiet day in Rio, since
everyone is sleeping - except, that is, for the clean-up crews who must
rake up Iemanja's rejects from the beach.
 
|
