The Renaixenca was intended as a rediscovery and revitalization of Catalonian culture, which had always been in tension with the dominant Madrid-oriented Castilian culture. At the same time, modernist currents were sweeping through Barcelona, Spain’s biggest, most sophisticated seaport. They inspired an architecture that, while it veered away from the stiff formality of the late 19^th century’s neo-classicism, refused to surrender a regional fascination with color, ceramic adornment or the juxtaposition of sometimes radically different textures.

Beyond “El Palau’s” entry colonnade of mosaic columns that are almost Chinese in their exuberant juxtapositioning of colors, is the “temple of Catalonian music,” a soaring auditorium distinguished by huge exterior wall windows, slender columns swathed in bright lights, a massive multicolored central chandelier and exuberant sculptures adorning the proscenium arch.

El Palau remains to this day one of the shining ornaments of the Renaixenca, celebrating Catalonian culture throughout the year with orchestral and choral offerings.  — Patrick Totty