Salzburg’s urban genius goes beyond
simply being Mozart’s birthplace
Geography, natural resources and history often unite to create cities
that have an aura about them, no matter what era they’re in. Istanbul,
situated on the strategic Bosphorous, comes to mind, as well as New
York, with its great natural harbor and location at the outlet of a
river, the Hudson, that would play greatly in the rise of the
U.S.
as an economic power.
On
a smaller scale,
Austria’s
Salzburg is such a city. From ancient times its location in a valley on
a navigable river near salt (“salz”) and gold mines, forests and
pasturelands made it an enviable and thriving urban location. During the
centuries-long Pax Romana, Salzburg (nee Juvavum in 15 A.D.),
with its convergence of three major Roman highways, was a major contact
point between the great empire and the Germanic tribes that would
eventually doom it by 500 A.D., then retrieve its glories in a burst of
creative energy a thousand years later.
Of
course the most brilliant star
Salzburg
ever produced was Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the great baroque musician
who born there in 1756. Mozart’s emergence cemented
Salzburg’s reputation as a city of art, a reputation that had begun
to grow in the Middle Ages under the enlightened aegis of the town’s
Catholic archbishops. They had pursued the twin policies of physically
protecting the town’s prosperity with the construction of the massive
Hohensalzburg Fortress above the city in 1077, while encouraging the
application of
Salzburg’s wealth toward the establishment of a university and creation
of architectural monuments.
In
the 17th century, construction began on the baroque cathedral
that, along with the Hohensalzburg Fortress, is the signature building
of the city. By then, it seems as though
Salzburg
had reached an expectant state of completion, awaiting the arrival of
some grand event, which Mozart’s birth turned out to be.
If
Mozart’s genius turned his birthplace in a musical haven – Salzburg
seems to have more good itinerant musicians per square kilometer than
any other town on earth – the city has other things to offer in
abundance. Its mix of baroque, Renaissance, Gothic, medieval and Roman
architecture begs for casual strolls along the town’s narrow streets
that inevitably lead to major plazas and squares. The climate is mild in
the non-winter months, and the town is festooned with parks, planters
and flower boxes, and gardens along the Salzach River. Some travelers
say Salzburg is still a Roman town in that it combines Mediterranean
love of art and color with a southern Germanic cheerfulness and discreet
efficiency.
Geographically,
Salzburg is a gateway to the Alps and their spectacular high country.
The city’s people are very affectionate toward their own local alpine
peaks, Mönchsberg, Festungsberg and Kapuzinerberg, all accessible by
road or funicular. Just south and west of the city lie the Bavarian
Alps, including Berchtesgaden, the alpine valley whose great beauty was
once besmirched because it held the infamous country retreat Hitler used
to escape
Berlin’s
dank climate. Munich is 50 air miles to the west, and to the east and
southeast are dozens of small alpine lakes and hamlets.
In
1996, UNESCO declared
Salzburg
a World Heritage City, an honor that joins it to, among others,
Jerusalem,
Kyoto,
Machu Picchu,
Salamanca and Bath as one of the great cities of mankind.
In
2002, Salzburg is planning an exuberant array of cultural festivals,
including its annual Easter Festival in late March, the River
Festival-Water Festival in late June, international choir and orchestra
festival in late June, “SommerSZENE” international modern dance, theater
and music festival in July, the summer-long Mozart Dinner Concerts, the
July festival at Hellbrunn park and palace, and the culminating Salzburg
Festival in August.
In
many ways Salzburg is a dream of a city. It combines the best spirit of two
great cultures – Germanic and
Mediterranean – in a spectacular natural setting, gracing nature
with its own artful blend of epochs and architectures. The urban area’s
population of 220,000 is large enough to sustain to rich cultural life,
and small enough to please with its lack of coarseness and hurry. And
the pastries are sensational. If your vacation dreams include any of
these criteria, give Mozart’s birthplace some consideration.
—
Patrick Totty
