Floating Country Inns!
...a genre in itself

by Naomi Kabak,
Director Marketing and Public Relations,  B and V Associates

Having been in the wholesale travel business for many years, I thought that I knew everything there was to know about most every product.  Boy, was I ever wrong.

My first trip on a hotel barge, in France, was scheduled for early November, not exactly peak season, and I was very concerned that I would freeze or at least be severely discomfited by the cold and the rain.  My vision of a canal barge consisted of a refurbished garbage scow, with cramped and primitive conditions, cruising uninteresting waterways in the back country. Surely I would enjoy lots of wine and maybe even some good food.  At best, my journey would be a unique "off-the-beaten-track" product.

My first surprise was that the cost of my barge holiday was almost totally inclusive and covered the transfers from our pick up point to the barge, all meals freshly prepared on board, daily sightseeing, bar drinks (true on most hotel barges), wines, and drop off at the hotel from which we were picked up in Paris.  And, lest I think that I could get away with not doing much exercise for the week, my barge even carried wonderful all-terrain bicycles which the crew was happy to provide us with just about any time we wanted one.

Upon arrival at our barge's mooring, we were welcomed by a cheerful group of young crew members, some taking our luggage to the cabins and some serving marvelous freshly prepared hors d'oeuvres, accompanied with a kir royale. They introduced as to our  "leader," the barge manager (captain).  My next surprise was that our small, 20-passenger barge had its very own classically trained chef on board. Wow!

Looking around at the rich wood paneling, lovely built-in sofas, pictures, and beautiful window treatments, I couldn't believe that this was the barge that I had pictured as a garbage scow. When I got to my twin cabin – not large but efficiently furnished with full, comfortable twin beds, minimal yet practical storage space, an ensuite bathroom, individually controlled heating and air-conditioning – I knew then that this product was and is the best-kept secret in travel.

After relaxing and unpacking, we began getting to know our fellow travelers while enjoying an aperitif and inhaling the glorious aromas already emanating from the kitchen. 

Looking around the barge’s living room and dining room, I could see the tables were already set for dinner, with candles lit. I remember thinking "What on earth will I wear to such a formal dinner?" It took only an instant for us to realize that this was an elegant lifestyle that one can enjoy in jeans or casual clothing. Elegance enjoyed in comfort, that's for me!

After we all took any seats at the table, feeling in good humor, our "glorious leader" gave us a brief overview of the next day's sightseeing, followed by a splendid description of the evening's wines. And then, oh my, out came the first course.  Well now, here my education and use of the English language is sorely lacking for I have no words with which to describe just how wonderful that meal was.  What I didn't know then is that meals kept getting better every single day. I don't know how the chef managed it, but he did.

Every day we relaxed as our very own floating country inn made its way along a winding canal in the heart of Burgundy. Each morning we awakened to the wonderful  aroma of croissants and  fresh baguettes, feeling calm and happy and looking forward to cycling or walking along the tow path. We were able to get on and off almost at will, pursuing whatever opportunities for interesting sightseeing, good conversation or superb onboard dining that presented themselves.

Oh, I must confess, it did take me a few hours to get accustomed to not having a phone, a computer, television and the trappings of civilization. Call it "communications withdrawal." But soon after that, who cared?  For the first time in years I was truly in an environment that forced me to feel unstressed. The scenery was captivating, there were plenty of interesting side trips, the food never failed to amaze and the wines were wonderful. The other passengers were fun to talk to and were enjoying the trip as much as I was. The crew made us all feel special and exuded charm, wit, and general good nature,

It would not have made one bit of a difference to me if I had been in other regions of France, or on another barge (there are more luxurious, smaller and larger ones), or if I had gone in another season. This trip was in a genre by itself.  It was the sum of its parts, including an active yet stress-free, elegant yet casual, fun experience that gave me a glimpse into the very soul of a country.