by Suzie Shride-Felipa, President and Founder
of Southwind Adventures

GNP was established in 1959 to protect the island's wildlife and environment. It is Ecuador's largest national park with nearly 3,000 square miles of land mass divided among six large islands, 12 smaller islands and more than 40 islets spread over 27,000 square miles of ocean.

Visitors come to these desert volcanic isles not only to see species that cannot be found anywhere else on earth but also for the chance to be near the wildlife and see at close range behaviors not normally observed. With few natural predators on the islands, it is possible to approach boobies, iguanas, sea lions, fur seals and others to within a few feet. It is the thrill of a lifetime to watch courtship rituals, nest building, chick rearing and so much more without disturbing the participants. In addition, being so close to the fauna enables even amateur photographers to capture stunning images on film.

Despite growing popularity as a travel destination, GNP serves as a model of eco-tourism for other reserves throughout the world, continually striving to achieve the precarious balance required by conscientious travel between the needs of nature, tourists and local people. The number of visitors to each island is strictly limited, and naturalist guides, trained and certified by the Charles Darwin Research Center, accompany each group – not only identifying the species spotted and explaining the behaviors observed, but equally important, assuring that the proper attitude of preservation and conservation is maintained by all guests.

The most important islands and visitor sites include:

Also known by its Spanish name, Española, this island provides a nearly complete resume of the best- known species in the islands. The rocky point of Punta Suarez sustains one of the most impressive and varied seabird colonies in the archipelago. One can see blue-footed and masked boobies, Hood mockingbirds, waved albatross (April-November), marine iguanas, lava lizards, sea lions, sally lightfoot crabs and more.

On the northeastern coast, the beautiful white sand beaches of Gardner Bay offer long walks with the chance to watch sea lions, spotted eagle rays, marine iguanas and possibly a Galápagos hawk.

The most northeasterly island in the chain, Tower (or Genovesa) is a jewel! Like Hood, it offers an overview of exciting species including red footed and masked boobies, sea lions and fur seals, short eared owls, lava and swallow-tailed gulls, yellow crowned night herons, lava herons, great and magnificent frigate birds, storm petrels, red billed tropicbirds, several varieties of Darwin's finches and more.

There is good snorkeling off the white sand beach at Darwin Bay and a panga ride along the cliffs may reveal hammerhead sharks!

Created when the lava from six volcanoes flowed together, Isabela is the largest of the islands, with an area of nearly 1,800 square miles. Graffiti dating back to the 1800’s was scratched into the rocky cliffs above Tagus Cove by pirates and sailors. Here a steep trail leads up past the saltwater lagoon to a lookout point on the lower slopes of Darwin volcano, providing a great view of the lava fields and sea. Penguins and sea birds are seen in the cove.

The youngest and westernmost island in the archipelago, Fernandina is the most pristine in the chain (to date there are no introduced species) and the most active volcano in GNP. The Punta Espinoza visitors' site is a stark region of intense black lava, dotted with a few mangroves and brachyacerus cactus. Here one can see the endemic flightless cormorant, as well as great blue herons, gulls, sea lions and one of the largest marine iguana colonies in the park.

Home to the Charles Darwin Research Center, as well as the islands' most populous town, Puerto Ayora, visitors to Santa Cruz will learn about conservation efforts in the archipelago, which began with protecting the Galápagos tortoises. There are opportunities to observe various stages of tortoise growth as well as spend a few moments face-to-face with one of these gentle giants in the bachelors’ pen. There is time to shop for souvenirs in town, and on full-day trips groups will visit the highlands to experience the lush cloud forests.

Also known as James. The best visitors’ site is Puerto Egas, with its fascinating inter-tidal communities of sally lightfoot and hermit crabs, urchins, sea anemones and barnacles, as well as the beautiful fur seal grottos where visitors may swim according to tidal levels. Marine iguanas graze on exposed green algae, while great blue herons, wandering tattlers, ruddy turnstones and oyster-catchers scour the shore for prey.

This is a lovely little island with a turquoise bay that is home to large sea lion colonies. Santa Fe has endemic species of land iguana and rice rats, as well as some of the largest and oldest optunia cacti in the islands.

Noted for the great views of Santiago Island and Pinnacle Rock from its summit, Bartolomé also provides insight into the creation of these fascinating islands. Geographic formations such as ropey pahoehoe and treacherous aa lava, spatter cones, parasitic craters and lava tubes highlight the climb to the top. One can observe the colonizing plants, tiquilia and lava cactus, and enjoy opportunities to swim with penguins and dozens of colorful reef fish from the beach.

Punta Cormorant is best known for the brackish lagoon where flamingos, whimbrels, stilts and white cheeked pintails, among other wading birds, are commonly observed. Just offshore is the Devil's Crown, a shallow sunken crater that is one of the best snorkeling sites in the Galápagos. Additional fascinating islands are visited during an eight-day cruise, including Plaza, Seymour and Rábida as well as other visitors' sites.